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Yesterday morning I witnessed a most tender moment. After my early morning routine of stretching, reading late breaking news, and capturing the sunrise outside my backdoor, I started making my coffee in the kitchen. It’s nice to once again see the weekday rush outside my dining room window -- parents dropping off their children at the school across the street. As I was placing scoops of coffee grounds into my percolator, I could see a young father with a baseball cap opening the doors of his SUV parked in front of my house. Then, as I plugged in the coffee maker, I saw him standing underneath the canopy of our leafy mulberry tree, with his two daughters at either side in what appeared to be a hug. How sweet, I thought to myself. But the hug lasted longer than usual, and they seemed oblivious to the frantic commotion behind them. Dad had his hands placed gently on their heads, and he held them close to his body. In that moment, it felt like one could hear a pin drop. Is he a single dad? Were they praying? Or was Dad wishing them a good day at school? Suddenly I had a gulp in my throat thinking there might be a tragedy in the family. Perhaps he was simply telling them, “I love you.” I will never know, but it gave me peace knowing that the view of my quiet front yard allowed them to share a precious few minutes before he walked them to the corner and bid them off with the crossing guard. This morning I woke up a little later than usual. Just as I opened the blinds to the front yard, who did I see walking to his SUV in front of my house? This is your country, and it’s up to you to save it.” – English translation of a saying in Taiwan Washing Hands + Wearing a Mask + Social Distancing = Saving Lives PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY

Last month with vaccines on the increase, COVID-19 restrictions loosening up, and the fact that Louie and I had been fully vaccinated since February, it was time to embark on our first dinner date in over a year. We love dining out, but by staying safer at home, buying take out and cooking up great meals, we got through the year unscathed. We had heard about Saso, the new restaurant at the historic Pasadena Playhouse. I got excited when I saw its Basque-inspired menu online -- a chance to connect with my Spanish-Basque roots! And its outdoor dining in the courtyard of the Playhouse’s Spanish Colonial Revival setting couldn’t be more romantic. The courtyard, shared with the Playhouse, is usually the gathering place for theater goers before the doors open. Historically, the Playhouse first opened in 1924 as a nationally renowned school for theater arts. George Bernard Shaw called it the Athens of the West, in the spirit of the Festival Dionysia in ancient Athens. The short list of alumni greats includes, Dustin Hoffman, Al Pacino, Sally Struthers, Ariana Grande, Charles Bronson, Sandra Tsing Loh, and Leonard Nimoy. A memory we will cherish forever was seeing Michael Jackson and his entourage arrive at the Playhouse when we attended his sold-out musical, Sisterella, in 1996 (in the dark of the theater, he took his balcony seat three rows in front of us). With a dinner setting like this, how could we not feel transported? Our server Theo (he’s Greek) enthusiastically guided us through beautiful courses: oysters on the half-shell that we ate ravenously, salad of the freshest greens and -- grilled with the legendary charcoal Josper oven created in Barcelona -- Whole Fish Basquaise, Alaskan Mussels, and divine Baby Artichokes with garlic aioli. The closing act was dessert of lusciously light Basque Cheesecake with Matcha. The next time we dine at Saso, I will ask for our same table for two. The one with the backdrop of the ticket window. What a blessing that we’re coming full circle. This is your country, and it’s up to you to save it.” – English translation of a saying in Taiwan Washing Hands + Wearing a Mask + Social Distancing = Saving Lives PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY

Ah, that first sip of my morning coffee is magic. Thank you, coffee gods, my day has officially begun. Two days ago, I walked into my back patio and noticed that the back door was open. No biggie, but it bugs me when flies or mosquitoes help themselves inside – or most improbably -- a bird. So, when I stepped inside, what did I encounter? A bird! It was brown and looked like a young sparrow. Oh no! This has never happened in the 35 years we have lived in the foothills. “There’s a bird in the house!” I yelled to Louie as he worked at his desk. I had hoped it would be easier to get a bird out than a fly or mosquito. After it fluttered around the kitchen, it went into the hallway. Good thing because the door leading to the living room was closed. It immediately flew back into the kitchen and, seeming to know the way out, it flew towards the now-closed back door. I quickly went into the mud room and saw it sitting on the shutter door of the water heater closet that had an opening at the top – as if waiting for me to open the back door. I opened it, and out it flew. That was exciting… After a few minutes I asked Louie if a bird flying into a house is a sign of good luck. He surely didn’t know, so I looked it up. Indeed, it is. Audubon California’s list of bird superstitions says that, “A bird that flies into a house foretells an important message.” The color and type of bird flying into a house also matters. In some cultures, a white bird represents ill health or death. We were in luck with the sparrow. It is said that sparrows are associated with the Greek Goddess Aphrodite, goddess of love and fertility. All homes should be so blessed! And to make matters better, flight direction of the bird has meaning, too. Coming from the north suggests that you better check on your financial status. From the south indicates rejuvenation and conquering obstacles. From the west is a reminder that “you are letting your emotions get the better of you.” For us, the sparrow flew in from the east – bringing a message that inspiration is on the way. We’ll take it. And behold, we received great news from the CDC yesterday that fully vaccinated Americans “…can resume activities that you did prior to the pandemic.” No need to wear masks. No need to social distance, “…except where required by federal, state, local, tribal, or territorial laws, rules, and regulations, including local business and workplace guidance.” It has been over a year that I have been writing my coronavirus diary. Never had I imagined that we would be celebrating a new beginning so soon. I am grateful knowing that my family is amongst the vaccinated. If vaccinations can continue at the same pace beyond our shores, imagine where the world can be by the end of 2021. This news was the inspirational message the sparrow was foretelling. "When You’ve Been Fully Vaccinated | CDC" https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/vaccines/fully-vaccinated.html PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY

Hungarian wines could be a household word today, but two world wars and 40 years under communist rule forced a major pause on this once-formidable wine producing country. “Wines from Hungary were considered the best in the world!” a wine store owner excitedly replied when I inquired whether he carried any. He didn’t that day because Hungarian wines in the U.S. are hard to come by. A look at the world map shows that Hungary in Central Europe is about the size of the state of New York and shares the same viniculture-friendly latitude and Mediterranean climate with Austria, Switzerland, and France to its west. Historical records indicate that Hungarians began making wine before the Romans. Its acclaimed Tokaji Aszu dessert wine comes from Tokaj, the oldest classified wine region in the world and a Unesco World Heritage Site. It was a favorite of King Louis the 14th of France who called it the “wine of kings, king of wines.” But during communism, Hungary, the largest wine-producing country in the Eastern Bloc, exported huge amounts of wine to the Soviet Union, which was more interested in quantity than quality. When communism ended in 1989, land was returned to rightful owners, including winemaking families and others keen on being a part of Hungary’s winemaking renaissance. The late 1990s marked the rebirth of fine winemaking throughout Hungary. Covering three-quarters of the country, Hungary’s 22 wine regions flourish in climate conducive for growing grapes and lush romantic landscapes ranging from basal-vulcanite mountains to the lowlands and plains rich in volcanic, limestone, clay and sandy soils. Its four most popular winemaking regions stretch across the country: Nagy Somlo in the west, Villany in the south, then Eger and Tokaj (Hungary’s crown jewel) in the north. Hundreds of grape varieties – from indigenous to international -- grow throughout the country. The most popular white grapes include Furmit, Harslevelu, Irsai Oliver Juhfark, Keknyelu and Olaszrizling. And Cabernet Franc, Kekfrankos, Kadarka, and Portugieser are some of the celebrated reds. And while the COVID-19 pandemic put restraints on travel, it didn’t stop me from finding Hungarian wines – online – thanks to Taste Hungary, Hungary’s most successful tourism operation based in Budapest. Founded in 2008, co-owners Carolyn and Gabor Banfalvi (she’s American, he’s Hungarian) shared a passion to “reintroduce” visitors to Hungary, its re-emerging wine culture and “culinary paradise.” Carolyn holds a culinary school degree and is a Hungarian food book author (“Food, Wine, Budapest”). By 2014 the Banfalvis opened a wine cellar, The Tasting Table, in Budapest and soon after a wine shop across the street for clients and the public to sample and buy wines produced throughout the country. And in a most intuitive move before the pandemic, they decided in 2019 to offer an online wine shop in the U.S. for their American clients back in the States who longed to enjoy Hungarian wines they had learned to love, not to mention Hungarian ex pats thirsty for wines from the homeland. Its popularity helped them survive the lockdowns. At first glance, the online offerings were dizzying, and the labels were in Hungarian. But I closed my neophyte eyes and went for it – two whites (from Tokaj and Somlo) and a red (from Villany). The English description of one of the whites -- Erszebet, Lunee, 2019 ($19.90) -- had me hooked: “There are few places in the world where Muscat Blanc makes such exciting wine,” and “Mexican food and light spicy food are a perfect match!” And at first sip, the floral character jumped out with delicious flavors of grapefruit zest, elderflower, passionfruit, and mango. “Hungary has quite a big and long history of winemaking,” Carolyn Banfalvi explained to me over the phone, “…but it is still one of the unknown countries in the U.S. Travelers are blown away when they discover a whole new wine culture…and Americans who like discovering new wine love it here because there are so many native grapes that are only found in Hungary.” Growing more fascinated with Hungary’s wine culture, I also connected with Athena Bochanis, owner of Palinkerie Fine Hungarian Imports in New York. She focuses exclusively on Hungarian wines and spirits. “I became enthusiastically entranced with Hungary’s culture, food, and wine,” said Bochanis, who lived a year in Hungary during law school -- and learned to speak perfect Hungarian. A few years later in 2013 after in-depth research and combing small wineries around Hungary, Bochanis took the leap of faith and founded Palinkerie to promote exciting wines produced by Hungary’s younger and less represented generation of winemakers. Bochanis describes the winemakers she partners with -- some second-, third-, fourth-, and seventh-generation winemakers -- as “a great blend of knowing what’s going on in the world” and willing to invest in new methods of winemaking such as pet-nats, natural, and organic wine. But coming from the long tradition of winemaking families, they still want to work with classic styles and traditional grapes to make wines that “…tell you they are from Hungary even if they have a modern sensibility.” The benefit of being a small operation, says Bochanis, is that “I have an opportunity to import some of the best wines.” Winemaking in Hungary is back. IF YOU GO: To learn more about Hungarian wines, view virtual wine tastings, and purchase wines online, visit: https://tastehungary.com https://www.palinkerie.com Published Version: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/05/21/hungarian-wine-is-above-the-radar-once-more

Ever since my coronavirus diary post sharing Taiwan Talk radio host Trevor Tortomasi’s interview with an entomologist at National Taiwan University, I’ve been listening in on more of his programs – and I’m getting hooked. Before, I didn’t know much about entomology. After the show, I felt so much smarter! As I had mentioned in the November 2020 post, radio station ICRT (International Community Radio Taipei) is Taiwan’s only English-language radio station serving Taiwan’s expat community. The station was originally established to serve U.S. military personnel until 1979 when the U.S. ended diplomatic ties with the Republic of China. Taiwan Talk was added to the station’s programming in 2013 to offer lively, entertaining, and informative conversations with local expats about culture, entertainment, and music in Taiwan. What an eye-opening and fascinating opportunity to learn from a “bird’s- eye view” what life is like living in Taiwan. In another fantastic interview, “Wisdom from the Black Expat – Podcaster, Traveler, and Bar Owner – Carl Hill,” I can’t help but embrace Carl’s openness to leave Chicago, Illinois, to try something new. Now living in Taiwan for 11 years, it was indeed a game-changer, not just for himself, but for others. I can’t help saying that it’s even more special for me when I listen to Trevor’s interviews because I know him personally. He grew up in my town, Sierra Madre, California. Fifteen years ago, during high school, he spent three-weeks in Taiwan, an experience that triggered his interest to learn the Chinese language. And that he did. He went on to earn a Bachelor’s Degree in Chinese Language and Literature from University of California at Irvine and studied Chinese Language and Literature at National Taiwan University. This is your country, and it’s up to you to save it.” – English translation of a saying in Taiwan Washing Hands + Wearing a Mask + Social Distancing = Saving Lives PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY

I am deeply honored to be an awards recipient of the 2021 International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association Annual Photo Contest: WINE/Vineyards (Third Place): Rolling vines age with grace. Hambledon Vineyard in Hampshire, England, is the UK’s oldest commercial vineyard. https://www.athenalucerotravels.com/post/hampshire-blazing-the-english-sparkling-wine-trail FOOD/Beautiful Meal (Honorable Mention): Rosti for lunch at the Grand Hotel Kronenhof, Pontresina, Switzerland. Rosti is a favorite national dish of Switzerland. https://www.athenalucerotravels.com/post/skiers-cross-the-line-in-switzerland Click on link to view all entries in the photo contest issue of FWT Magazine: https://fwtmagazine.com/food-wine-travel/the-magazine/

Spring is in full bloom and attention has turned to Lawrence of Arabia, our desert tortoise. We quietly welcomed her when she came out of her five-and-a-half-month-long hibernation on March 22. Like clockwork, she usually emerges earlier in the month, but perhaps the week-long cold spell we had the few weeks before confused her. Or maybe she was hoping for the pandemic to be over. She is out in full force now, after her typically slow awakening: First, she comes out of the closet for a little while, then returns to her dark corner for another few days. Then she comes out again for longer periods walking around the house. That’s when I put her in a shallow pool of water in the tub so that she can start hydrating again and waking up her organs. It was time to remind the gardener not to trim the ivy at the bottom as Lawrence takes refuge underneath the leafy canopy when she’s ready to snooze. And after reacquainting herself with three den options, she found her way down “Lawrence’s Alley” to her favorite one that stays cool on the hottest summer days. Yesterday, Louie took a long walk and returned with yellow dandelion flowers that he had picked for Lawrence. From his pocket he brought out a handful for me to put in Lawrence’s enclosed yard, which we keep as a natural habitat. We don’t pull the dry weeds because they are nutritious for Lawrence – and which we supplement with salads of greens like carrot tops, spinach, mulberry leaves, grass and more. Rose petals, also on her food list, are her favorite. I looked at last year’s photos when Lawrence woke up. Her yard was green and lush following lots of rain. This year, though, drought conditions have left the yard dry. But Lawrence can weather it – she’s a desert tortoise! This is your country, and it’s up to you to save it.” – English translation of a saying in Taiwan Washing Hands + Wearing a Mask + Social Distancing = Saving Lives PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY

On a COVID-inspired Easter Sunday drive, we discovered a wild botanical habitat and urban oasis at The Arlington Garden in Pasadena, California. Covering two-and-a-half acres, it is not a park, but a lush water-wise regenerative garden project built by the community. Celebrating Southern California’s Mediterranean climate (no admission charge), it’s designed with “rooms” of wild local flora and lovingly maintained. Dirt pathways meander throughout, and scattered intimate seating arrangements invite visitors to relax, reflect, or enjoy a quiet picnic. Crape Myrtle trees are above-ground wishing wells with visitors’ handwritten hopes and aspirations dangling from bare branches. Deep inside the garden we “walked the labyrinth.” The rock-lined circuitous path introduced us to an ancient practice known around the world that offers contemplation and spiritual centering. A labyrinth’s single path leads to its center -- or “the center of your inner thoughts or of the world or of the universe.” The seemingly simple pattern of the Arlington Garden Labyrinth follows the oldest labyrinth design – over 5,000 years old. It was an easy five-minute, but slow walk, to the center, the half-way point. With each thoughtful step, I looked down as the stones guided me along the narrow serpentine route. Oblivious to everything else around me, I reached the center, lingered for a long and quiet minute, then turned around to complete my pensive walk back through the magic of the labyrinth. This is your country, and it’s up to you to save it.” – English translation of a saying in Taiwan Washing Hands + Wearing a Mask + Social Distancing = Saving Lives PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY

On Thursday, March 25, our sweet Lola made her way to Rainbow Bridge, the mythical connection between heaven and Earth where pets who have passed wait in a meadow until their owners reunite with them so that they can cross the bridge together. Such comforting lore at a time of deep loss. In the few days before, we could see that Lola was running out of gas, but she kept hanging on. After numerous tests, bone marrow procedures, and most recently a blood transfusion, deadly leukemia was the culprit ravaging Lola’s blood cell production. It would not get better. Lola’s blood test the day before showed that her blood cell levels had dropped to 13%, the lowest since the transfusion two weeks before. She needed to be hospitalized. Again. She looked beautiful and deceptively normal, but her breathing had become labored. We are forever grateful to Lola’s caring doctors who diagnosed her “good” (slow-moving) lymphoma two years before, which has been in remission. But our time had come to make the painful decision between proceeding with weekly injections and more testing or to let Lola go peacefully with grace, with all of her faculties intact, and without pain. We scheduled her euthanasia for the following morning. It was as though Lola knew the plan. On the morning of the 25th, she took her last pee on the lawn. Our neighbor Elizabeth crossed the street to pet Lola over the fence, a tearful moment for all of us. Lola sat and wagged her tail as she smiled up at Elizabeth. When it was time to go back inside the house, Lola laid down at the fence, something she had never done before. “Come on in, Lola,” Louie called out. But with her head held high, she just stared at us. Then as we walked up the front porch steps, she was suddenly right behind us. As soon as Lola went inside the house, she immediately laid on her bed, exhausted. As if saying, “I’m ready.” Saying goodbye to Lola hit us hard. But time, our best friend, always heals. Our dear friends and animal lovers Teresa and Denis left white orchids on our porch. After reading their beautiful card out loud on the pathway, we huddled, hugged, and wept. Then, shockingly, Rod, one of Lola’s BFFs since she was a puppy (she always ran into his arms whenever she saw him in the town square) texted Louie for the first time. Because of the pandemic, we hardly saw him. He checked in to ask how we have been and also had a refinance question. To break the news to Rod broke our hearts. Another coincidental occurrence: Lola had a favorite UPS driver. She knew the sound of Ernie’s truck. On walks around town, Lola would come to a screeching halt whenever she saw brown UPS trucks, always checking to see whether Ernie was inside. If it wasn’t Ernie, she kept on walking. If it was Ernie, she bolted for the truck. A few weeks ago, while Lola was outside, I saw a UPS truck turning the corner. Lola went crazy as she ran along the fence. It’s not Ernie, I called out. As the driver stepped out of the truck to deliver a package to our neighbor, she noticed Lola standing at the fence, smiled, and acknowledged her. The next day, Lola and Louie saw the same driver. Louie explained Lola’s bond with Ernie. Then the driver told Louie that she was driving Ernie’s truck! Louie asked her to please let Ernie know that Lola is not doing well. That same week, Ernie dropped by our house to see Lola. Such a heartwarming reunion. I will have to visit Lola more often, he said. These moments were extraordinary, if not eerie. After Louie and I took an evening walk on Friday, I started preparing dinner. Louie was doing some office work. The house was so quiet. I looked around, then yelled out to Louie. “You know what I just realized? Lola was the loudest one in the family!” She was a task master. Often before her dinner time, Lola would come to me with “The Look.” No, Lola, I would tell her. “It’s too early. Go sit with your Dad.” And there she quietly went. Ten minutes later, she would peek into the kitchen, her neck stretched out like a rubbernecker, with her laser eyes on me. “Not yet…go lay down.” And there she went. Sometimes this happened three or four times. It was quite funny. When it came to OUR dinner time, Lola didn’t hesitate to tell Louie. By the end of each workday, she stood on all fours next to Louie at his computer. With the stomp of her front leg, she was telling him to wrap it up. Stop working! During dinner prep, she always positioned herself between the dining room and the kitchen to “watch the show.” Completely focused in his chef’s zone, Louie moved between the chopping board and the stove with Lola quietly at the ready to catch flyaway food. When we sat for dinner, she politely waited nearby until she could see that I was done eating and no longer fiddling with my utensils. Then she knew it was okay to ask for her after-dinner snack. But if our dinner conversations were carrying on longer than she could stand, she would softly grumble until I acknowledged her, at times escalating her grumblings if I didn’t respond fast enough. “I hear you, Miss Lola…” But Lola’s favorite time of the day was late evening when Jacqueline arrived home from her studio. The ritual started with 10-minute hugs at the back door. After I bid everyone goodnight, the kitchen came alive, again, as Jacqueline whipped up late-night eats with Lola at her side as they moved in unison from the fridge to the stove. But I was always comforted knowing that whatever Lola had in her belly by the time she went to bed was healthy and nutritious. Yesterday we paid a visit to Lola’s brother Bleu who lives by the beach. Like his sister, he still looks gorgeous even in his senior years. We thank Louie’s Aunt Magdalena who surprised us with three-month old Lola just two weeks after our beloved Anouk, another Golden Retriever, had passed. Before leaving for San Clemente, we discovered a lovely bouquet of flowers and a card in the rocking chair on our front porch, which had been left by our neighbors Derek, Natalie, and their boys Jason and Roman. Such love for Lola. The sentiment, “for every death there is a birth,” rang true when we walked out of the veterinary clinic following our farewell to Lola. In the parking lot was a young owner with her new frisky Golden Retriever puppy, looking as mischievous as Lola did when we brought her home ten and a half years ago. The sweet pink leash was the giveaway that it was a girl. Our tears became smiles with this joyful scene. Perhaps this sighting was Lola’s doing, reminding us that life goes on. Thank you, Lola, for your love, loyalty and being with us through COVID. You taught us lessons and you brought happiness to not just us, but extended family, friends, and so many others who knew you. You will be in our hearts forever. Rest well, pretty girl. This is your country, and it’s up to you to save it.” – English translation of a saying in Taiwan Washing Hands + Wearing a Mask + Social Distancing = Saving Lives PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY

It was a crisp 37 degrees when I woke up this morning. Nothing like clean air after a rain and perfect weather for morning walks. Lately, my daily walks have been preempted with appointments and other pressing matters. But it was wonderful to get back on track the other day. I passed the playground of a local school. It was a sight for sore eyes to see classes back in session again. Children wearing face masks laughed and happily chased one another around while staying socially distanced. Others were spaced apart on the wall eating snacks. Then I passed a girl and boy (pre-teens) sitting on a wall by the fence in deep conversation. Oh, how I wished that I could have eavesdropped! Then, a few blocks up the hill, I admired from a few yards away new leaves sprouting on a tree. Not the most exciting thing to see, but something lured me closer. When I glanced beyond the leaves, I came eye-to-eye with the camouflaged whimsical face of a man appended to the tree – eyes complete with puffy bags, thick eyebrows, a prominent nose, moustache, and full lips. Hmmm, it was a lovely likeness of Louie’s late father who was, fittingly, a whimsical man. And on my way back down the hill, not far from that tree, a sweet cat crossed the busy street heading straight towards me, tail straight up – signaling a happy cat. This good energy was all I needed to kickstart my day. This is your country, and it’s up to you to save it.” – English translation of a saying in Taiwan Washing Hands + Wearing a Mask + Social Distancing = Saving Lives PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY

March 2020 may be a blur. But probably not. The worldwide Covid-19 pandemic came crashing down on all of us. Let’s not go back there again. I have written this personal coronavirus diary ever since never losing inspiration to chronicle moments of this historic time. My entry today reviews the year in images (I have taken 1,160 photos to date) -- the bad, the good, the heartwarming, the resolve of neighbors supporting neighbors and the forward-looking who have stepped up to the challenge by keeping spirits up. No one could have predicted where we would be a year later. And here we are, invigorated with vaccines rolling out around the country and the world. If everyone is vaccinated, the sooner we can return to the lives we enjoyed pre-pandemic. A New Year’s ornament summed it up: “HAPPY NEW YEAR 2021.” And in smaller words below: “NOT TO REPEAT 2020” This is your country, and it’s up to you to save it.” – English translation of a saying in Taiwan Washing Hands + Wearing a Mask + Social Distancing = Saving Lives PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY

Around 4:30 a.m. this morning I heard music to my ears. Lola was in the kitchen slurping water like a horse. Just recently, following numerous tests and procedures to learn why Lola’s white blood cell count has been dangerously low, an aggressive lymphoma was discovered. Dr. Wiles, her veterinary oncologist, couldn’t tell if it was from the low-grade lymphoma Lola was diagnosed with two years ago, which has been in remission, or if it is a new cancer. In any case, it wasn’t good news, and it was necessary to move quickly. Last Friday, we took Lola to Dr. Wiles’ office in Culver City to receive a one-time injection (L-spar) that could encourage Lola’s white blood cell growth. In a few days, I will start giving Lola prednisone orally to help boost her energy and maintain an appetite. This first step will be followed in a week with CHOP chemotherapy. But all day yesterday, our hearts sank to see no energy in Lola. She needed help to get up to eat and go outside to take care of personal business. When we got her up on all fours, she moved like a little old lady, shuffling ever-so-hesitantly with every step. I cried to see her so disengaged and not her sassy self that makes Lola “Lola.” At times we would see Lola attempt to get up, but she didn’t have strength in her front legs to prop herself up. So, she plopped herself back down on her bed. Together, Louie and I lifted her with the help of her harness handle and a sling under her belly. We guided her down the dog ramp to the front lawn. There, she would just stand stoic for minutes as if knowing just one step would take all her might. But carefully, one step at a time, she worked her way to the corner of the lawn where she pees and took care of business. Then, like clockwork, she slowly moved to the spot where she likes to poop. Afterwards, she again stood still for minutes before inching her way back to the ramp. She laid all day on her bed, rarely moving or lifting her head. We would bring her water bowl to her so that she could drink. Fortunately, she has not lost her appetite – always a good sign. Still, her lack of strength to walk, to the point that she looked worse than she was before the injection, has had us extremely worried. So, hearing Lola drinking this morning like there’s no tomorrow made me spring out of bed to see her wagging her tail in the dark. I quickly put my coat on to take her to go potty, wondering if she could make the walk by herself to the front door. Sure enough, she followed me with a somewhat fluid gait. She walked down the ramp on her own. I couldn’t believe what I was seeing. She wandered to her same spots where she did #1, then #2 – and by herself walked up the ramp to go inside the house. It’s 7:45 a.m. and she’s still sleeping. Let’s see if she has the same energy when she wakes up for breakfast. We will take it one hour at a time. Go Lola! PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY

“I love Tannat! I’ve never tasted wine from this grape before,” I excitedly commented to Jennifer McInnis, General Manager at Bending Branch Winery in historic Comfort, Texas. But I wasn’t at the bar with a tasting flight before me. I was at home taking part in a Zoom webinar about off-the-radar winemaking in the Lone Star State that’s turning heads and winning international awards. Each webinar participant received a wine from a member of Texas Fine Wine (our host) and shared our impressions of the fabulous vintages. Covid times has corralled travelers temporarily, but wine consumption has not waned with virtual wine tastings as popular as curbside pick-up. During the program I learned from wine educator Denise Clarke that Texas is the country’s fifth largest wine producing state after California, Washington, New York, and Oregon and the fifth largest in number of wineries with more than 400. Clarke is also director at Texas Fine Wine, a private group comprised of Texas’ five most esteemed wineries – Bending Branch Winery, Brennan Vineyards, Pedernales Cellars, Duchman Family Winery, and Spicewood Vineyards, who were also at the webinar. Hearing it “straight from the horse’s mouth” was almost as good as being in Texas. Texas is larger than France and graced with landscapes formed by plains, plateaus, mountains, and hills. The diversity of soils and climates explain why Texas can cultivate over 50 grape varietals, including those less commonly known – such as Tannat. Texas has eight AVAs (American Viticultural Area), but the webinar focused on the two largest: The High Plains in the north near Lubbock, and Hill Country in the south 30 minutes from San Antonio. “Eighty percent of Texas wine grape production comes from the vast High Plains,” Clarke said. At 4,000 – 5,000 feet above sea level this region has alkaline-rich red sand and clay, and the continental semi-arid climate provides warm weather so the grapes can ripen during the day and rest during cool nights. Spring freezes were once a challenge, but investments have been made in hail netting and innovative wind fan technology to protect the vines against frost. Texas Hill Country is hilly and lush with trees. Elevation is between 400 and 2,400 feet, and soil types range from limestone, granite, and clay to gravel, alluvial soil, and sandstone. Summers are hot, winters are cold, and humidity is this region’s challenge. This wide-open viticultural playground of creative possibilities has even inspired some California winemakers to resettle here and create anew their craft with a Texas twang, so to speak. When a question popped up about how so many varietals can grow in the terroir and semi-arid climate of the High Plains, Julie Kuhlken, sixth-generation co-owner of Pedernales Cellars where she and her brother produce Spanish and Rhone-style wines, explained Texas’ out-of-the-box way of thinking. “One of the misperceptions of Texas,” said Kuhlken, “…is limited climate for growing grapes.” But Texas has enormous geographic diversity. Rather than relying on rain, the High Plains has made investments in innovative irrigation technology to ensure that the plants get enough water. Also, because people already know the popular international varietals like cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, and pinot grigio, Texas winegrowers decided to stop growing things that people already know the names of -- but that don’t grow well here -- and instead, grow lesser-known Mediterranean varietals from France, Italy, Spain, and Greece that grow well in Texas and get wine-drinkers to learn their names. Such as tannat, grenache, mourvèdre, tempranillo, touriga nacional, and many more. Another difference between the two largest AVAs? “Tourism is in Hill Country, and the High Plains is all about winemaking,” said Dave Reilly, winemaker at Duchman Family Winery in Hill Country. With a strong focus on Italian varieties, a majority of Duchman’s grapes are sourced in the High Plains. Duchman’s flight wines are made from vermentino, trebbiano, montepulciano, and aglianico. Rebecca Conley, head of operations at Brennan Vineyards in the 1860s frontier town of Comanche between Hill Country and the High Plains, introduced Ella’s Pine, a new white wine. “This is the first time in 16 years of making wine to bring Semillon to bottle at 100% Semillon,” Conley said. Typically used for blending with viognier, the grape is now a special line for Brennan Vineyards, thanks to this pet project of vineyards manager Travis Conley (Rebecca’s husband). I was curious about sparkling wines, which a few Texas wineries make. But what’s taking off here are pet-nats, a naturally sparkling wine. Short for “petillant naturel,” it’s a rustic version of champagne and other sparkling wines because it’s bottled during the first fermentation (whereas champagne goes through two). Petillant naturel is an ancient minimal intervention method practiced in France and rediscovered in the 1990s. Born in Austin, Ron Yates, owner of Spicewood Vineyards, grew up in the Hill Country “before it was cool.” One of the oldest estate vineyards in this AVA, Spicewood specializes in growing the Spanish tempranillo grape – a result of Yates living in Spain with a winemaking family during his college years and unexpectedly developing an expertise in growing tempranillo. Leaving behind careers in law and music, he followed his winemaking instincts. Now, tempranillo thrives all over the state. In his eyes, “Tempranillo is the grape of Texas.” And while Texas winemaking dates back to the Spanish missionaries, Texas sells its wine almost exclusively within the state. After all, it is the size of a country. WHEN YOU GO: Texas Fine Wines: www.TexasFineWine.com Texas Hill Country: www.hill-country-visitor.com/ Texas High Plains: www.highplainswinegrowers.org/high_plains_vineyards Visit Texas: www.traveltexas.com/ See the published version at: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/02/21/fine-wine-is-the-pride-of-texas PHOTO GALLERY

Oh, the places you’ll see! Maybe. As vaccines are rolling out around the world, the travel bug is biting at our ankles to get us out of isolation. But the pandemic is changing the way we will henceforth explore the globe. Passports as we know them prove our identities. Now, countries, including Iceland and the U.S., are seriously considering requiring official documentation such as a vaccine passport or certificate to prove that travelers are protected against COVID and other variants, and have tested negative before putting out their welcome mats. I’m all for it and will sleep better -- on the plane, with a mask -- knowing that everyone on board is that much safer. Israel just started its Green Pass, a digital vaccination passport program. “Anyone with a ‘Green Pass’ can travel within the country and has access to places like gyms, theaters and hotels.” The U.S. and other countries are considering a digital vaccine passport, too, but because cybersecurity is a major issue, it remains under study. In our era of COVID, my guess is that it’s only a matter of time that some kind of vaccine passport will be the norm for travelers. So, for those who have been relishing the thought of leaving on a jet plane or cruise ship as soon as the coast is clear, but may be on the fence about getting vaccinated, this just might help you make the decision to do it posthaste. And when I pulled out my file to take a look at my current passport, I saw my expired passports rubber banded together. Inside each one, date stamps through the decades reminded me of the places I have seen. My mind flooded with lifetime memories. In the future, I will know why the year 2020 will be absent of stamps. Now, I’m biting at the bit to fill the pages again. https://www.travelandleisure.com/travel-news/countries-accepting-vaccinated-travelers?utm_medium=browser&utm_source=travelandleisure.com&utm_content=20210227&utm_campaign=836028 https://www.nbcbayarea.com/news/coronavirus/digital-vaccine-passport-under-consideration-in-the-us/2477978/ This is your country, and it’s up to you to save it.” – English translation of a saying in Taiwan Washing Hands + Wearing a Mask + Social Distancing = Saving Lives PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY

WE’RE VACCINATED! It’s the fourth day since getting our life-changing second Covid-19 vaccinations. After the 15-minute required wait period at the hospital, we jumped into our car and gave each other heartfelt high fives. Being a senior in the time of coronavirus has its advantages. Our vulnerable age group is a high-priority category able to receive the vaccine in the early distribution stages. It was surreal as unexpected emotions of joy and gratitude overcame us. A new beginning, indeed. So far, so good. We have not experienced significant side effects other than expected soreness in the areas where we got our shots. The next day I had mild chills and we both felt mild fatigue, which went away by the following morning. Let’s hope it stays that way. Others have had delayed reactions or have gotten flu-like side effects that have lasted for days. In two to three weeks, we should be ALMOST fully-protected from getting Covid-19 – after having played it safe since last March by avoiding crowds, masking up, social distancing, and constantly washing our hands – not only to protect ourselves, but others. Dining out, our favorite pastime, has been put on hold as we opt to cook at home or buy take-out. The greatest takeaway from this is that Louie fearlessly accepted the shelter-at-home challenge to up his culinary game, which he did in spades. Like an exquisite and potent pesto only achieved by using the freshest basil that he bought at the farmer’s market. Then there was the trout he bought from a fishmonger that he cooked stove-top with herbs – that happened to catch Lola’s undivided attention. Along with relatives and friends who have also received their second shots, we couldn’t help sharing excitement at the thought of being able to get together again. On the other hand, I learned that because the vaccines do not protect us 100%, we can still get the virus or silently transmit Covid-19 or more contagious mutations to others who are not vaccinated. The virus can hang out in nasal passageways and spread by breathing, talking, and sneezing. There is still so much to learn about the virus, the variants, and the vaccines. For that reason, we still need to protect one another by practicing what has already become second nature: wearing a mask, social distancing, and washing hands. The morals to this story? First: Better to be safe than sorry. Second: If everyone is vaccinated, the chances of spreading the virus could be – ZERO. We will get there. One day. https://www.cnn.com/2021/02/03/health/after-covid-19-vaccine-safety-wellness/index.html This is your country, and it’s up to you to save it.” – English translation of a saying in Taiwan Washing Hands + Wearing a Mask + Social Distancing = Saving Lives PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY