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If you’re a foodie, gourmet, gourmand, or just hungry, satisfying your tastebuds in Los Angeles is a main event. In a recent ranking by U.S. World and News Report, ethnically diverse L.A. shares the spotlight as one of the top four Best Food Cities in the U.S. alongside New Orleans, New York City, and Chicago. January 2024 data reported that Los Angeles restaurants --  that is, those listed with phone numbers -- totaled more than 9,300. With new restaurants opening every week, choosing where to dine is both a dizzying challenge and a gastronomic adventure. The saying, “Food is a universal language that brings people together,” will forever be true. Indeed, two legendary dining and gathering spots in LA are the forerunners to the city’s fame as an international culinary destination. Enter Grand Central Market in the heart of Downtown Los Angeles, inducted into the Restaurant Hall of Fame in 2023, and The Original Farmers Market on 3rd Street and Fairfax Avenue on the city’s west side designated a Historical Cultural Landmark in 1991. It turns 90 on July 14, 2024. The markets first provided convenience, sustenance, and community for LA’s growing immigrant populations. Today they are kaleidoscopic urban oases where people from all walks of life still come to break bread under one roof. Open every day, they are where vendors sell quality food items and cook up fresh meals for locals, tourists, and nearby workers who come to shop, grab a coffee or dine. There’s no better place to watch the world go by. My visits to both rocked my taste buds and more. In 1917, Grand Central Market opened on Broadway as “the largest and finest public market on the Pacific Coast” next door to the Million Dollar Theater that opened the same year. Built by Sid Grauman of Hollywood’s Chinese Grauman Theater fame, the Spanish Colonial Revival landmark is among the country’s first movie palaces. And for the wealthy residents on Bunker Hill above the market, the famous Angels Flight funicular, directly across from the Renaissance Revival landmark Bradbury Building constructed in 1893, provided transport along downtown’s steepest incline. First built in 1901, it’s known as the shortest railway in the world. The one-block ride in the Beaux-Arts tram that still serves Bunker Hill was quick yet exhilarating. At first glance, contemporary signage and outdoor cafe tables suggested a trendy eatery. But bright neon signs inside welcomed me to the magical nostalgia of 40 bustling food stalls and a parade of visitors. Trendy offerings like Berlin Currywurst, Eggslut, Broadway Street Oyster Co., and all-vegan Ramen Hood, share space alongside family-owned Legacy Vendors with the next generation at the helm. One of these is China Café, which opened in 1959. Its original 22-seat counter was full and dishes from its original menu are still favorites. Another is long-standing Torres Produce’s throwback stall of fresh fruits, vegetables and a staggering display of 20-plus varieties of dried chiles. Wexler’s Deli, a 10-year GCM vendor, won me over with its quintessential sandwich of tender carved-to-order pastrami and oozing mustard on rye – “The O.G.” As I chowed down at the counter, the friendly server explained the difference between pastrami and corned beef: “They’re the same,” he said, “…but pastrami is cooked with more spices.” Every Friday, Saturday and Sunday, GCM’s lower level comes alive with The Bazaar where local merchants and artisans sell handmade clothing, jewelry and other original creations. Open nightly until 10:00 p.m., visiting GCM is not just for foodies but fills the appetites of architecture and history buffs, too. The following weekend, my husband and I trekked to the Original Farmers Market at 3rd and Fairfax. In 1934, this corner land was vacant -- until an idea to “build a village” was born. In the late 19th century, the land was a dairy farm owned by Arthur Gilmore. When he decided to expand his farm, he went digging for water. He struck oil instead. Gilmore’s Midas touch turned the farmland into fields of oil derricks. Petroleum produced by the Gilmore Oil Company was used to pave roads throughout the region and his more than 1,100 gas stations fueled the growing automobile industry. But expansion of Los Angeles would limit growth of the oil fields, and the city’s first farmers market was born. Farmers paid fifty cents a day for a parking space to sell fresh produce from their pickups. Restaurants and stores were added, and colorful festivals became part of the mix. News of this novel attraction drew local shoppers and international travelers. Today the lively covered marketplace located just south of CBS Television City buzzes with over 100 vendors and services such as produce stands, gift stores, a meat market, old fashioned candies, a Mediterranean market, prepared-food stalls offering international cuisines and Monsieur Marcel’s gourmet market, seafood market and romantic bistro. Displayed on a wall are nostalgic photographs of the market’s early days, including one with 1950s actress Marilyn Monroe. The market is still a favorite Hollywood hangout. The iconic clock tower honors the original 18 vendors and visionaries Fred Beck and Roger Dahlhjelm whose idea for a community farmstand became a reality. In 2002, Third and Fairfax continued the spirit of community with the addition of The Grove, a nostalgic Main Street-style open-air mall complete with a cobbled lane, a cinema, bookstore, restaurants, high-end shops and a double-decker trolley built on the undercarriage of a 1950s Boston streetcar to transport guests to the Original Farmers Market. Beware: Traffic at the famous intersection is always busy. If you don’t see the clock tower first, look for the low-profile white brick wall on the northeast corner that marks the spot with the handwritten slogan: “Meet me at Third and Fairfax.” IF YOU GO: Grand Central Market:  https://grandcentralmarket.com/ The Original Farmer’s Market:  https://farmersmarketla.com/ PUBLISHED VERSION:  https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/03/24/historic-marketplaces-bring-food-and-people-together

On a whim, Chef Louie decided to make albondigas soup. So, brothers Louie and Armando (who came in from Las Vegas to perform at the Magic Castle) united to create a perfect winter night’s meal. But we were out of rice to bind the meatballs. “Lentils will work,” Jacqueline chimed in. A new recipe was born. ¡Tan delicioso!

Pronounced “the One-10,” California State Route 110 -- aka Arroyo Seco Parkway aka Pasadena Freeway -- is a destination. “It’s a rite of passage to drive the 110,”  I heard someone say. Adding “the” before a freeway’s name is a Southern California quirk. The curvy eight-mile byway was inaugurated at its completion in 1940 -- although it opened to traffic in 1938, when most of it was finished. Named for the seasonal river running alongside it, the scenic tree-lined roadway has six lanes and four Art Deco tunnels. Parkways (landscaped highways) were the precursor to the modern freeway. And depending on the source, the 110 is on record as the first freeway in the western United States, the first freeway in the country, even the first freeway in the world. One thing is certain: It became the model for America’s freeways. It has few turnouts, no shoulders, onramps that start at a dead stop, and nailbiter hairpin exits (cars were a lot slower back in 1940). A feat for its time, its distinguished designations include National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark, National Scenic Byway, and it’s on the list of the U.S. National Register of Historic Places. The 110 connected booming Los Angeles to the wealthy Arts and Crafts enclave of Pasadena that flourished along the foothills of the great San Gabriel Mountains. Homes constructed in the style of dark-wooded Craftsman bungalows were reminiscent of Swiss chalets that inspired the area’s nickname, “Little Switzerland.” Pasadena is also home to the Rose Bowl Stadium; the Wrigley Mansion, headquarters for the Tournament of Roses and former home of chewing gum mogul William Wrigley Jr.; the Gamble House (as in Proctor & Gamble); the Art Center College of Design; the Norton Simon Museum; Pasadena Museum of California Art; Jet Propulsion Laboratory; and Caltech. And Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena’s long main thoroughfare and the western terminus of Route 66, is the site of the annual New Year’s Day Rose Parade. By 1954 – as Los Angeles began expanding -- the California Highway Commission changed the name of Arroyo Seco Parkway to the Pasadena Freeway. But by 2010 when the California Department of Transportation recognized the 110’s contributions to the history of Southern California, the name change was reversed. So, when I learned that Arroyo Fest 2023 would be closing most of the Arroyo Seco Parkway to automobile traffic for four hours and opening it to walkers, runners, cyclists, skateboarders, roller skaters, baby strollers, wheelchair users, and other similarly wheeled devices, I dropped everything to join thousands to be a part of history. The first and last time Arroyo Fest took place was in 2003 with the goal to bring area residents together and celebrate the diverse communities of the Arroyo Seco -- from Avenue 26 to its northern end where the freeway transitions to a surface street fittingly named Arroyo Parkway this became the gateway to the cultural gems of northeastern Los Angeles County – such as the Gamble House, considered the finest example of Craftsman architecture on the planet. Also here are the world-famous Huntington Library, Art Museum and Botanical Gardens in San Marino, once home to railroad magnate Henry Huntington and his art collector wife Arabella. I met cyclist Jim Hasenauer. Decked out in a tuxedo jersey he had just finished his early morning ride on the 110. I complimented his fashion sense. “I wear it for special occasions,” he replied. A 44-year cycling veteran, he has participated in countless cycling events over the decades. “But never on a freeway.” A free event, participants could enter at any freeway entrance or off-ramp. Stepping foot onto the 110, I grinned from ear to ear and shouted, “I’m walking on the freeway!” From the center divider I watched hordes of cyclists roll down the northbound lanes. On my side, walkers, joggers, parents pushing strollers, single folks, men in business suits, a young couple holding hands, even someone in high heels -- meandered leisurely up and down the southbound lanes. The collective sense of awe and delight was palpable. And while driving the 110, it’s worth noting offramps that lead to under-the-radar attractions. Like Heritage Square Museum (Avenue 43 exit) for example, a “neighborhood” of  meticulously preserved Victorian-era structures from around Los Angeles. The family-friendly venue welcomes all to a visual tour of Southern California’s first 100 years. A few exits north, the Orange Grove Avenue off-ramp leads to the vibrant town of South Pasadena founded in 1888 and today popular for its award-winning farmers market. Metro Rail passengers can disembark at the South Pasadena Station and find the market just steps away. Locals and regulars from afar come for pristine organic produce, fresh cheeses, breads, seafood, tantalizing prepared meals and many special offerings – surrounded by a parklike setting with live music. It takes place every Thursday afternoon, rain or shine, except for Thanksgiving. And nearby Mission Street lined with boutique shops, outstanding restaurants, and coffee shops, stays open late on Thursdays. West of the farmers market, a drive-up tree-lined Grand Avenue will treat you to a tour of beautiful Craftsman homes and estates until it ends below Colorado Boulevard in Pasadena. At the top of Grand, look for the historic peach-colored six-story Spanish Colonial Revival building constructed in 1920 as the Vista del Arroyo Hotel and Bungalows. It served as a World War II military hospital and is today home to the U.S. Ninth Circuit Court of Appeals. Eventually the 110 extended south, becoming the commercial corridor between L.A. and the Ports of Los Angeles and Long Beach and ultimately part of the interstate freeway system. But back to the birthplace of the country’s first freeway -- the meandering scenic drive on Arroyo Seco Parkway that became a national treasure. IF YOU GO: https://southpasadenafarmersmarket.org/ https://www.heritagesquare.org/ https://gamblehouse.org/ https://www.626goldenstreets.com/  (Arroyo Fest) PUBLISHED VERSION:  https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/12/23/pasadenas-110-becomes-the-destination

There was a time when we braved the morning chill, traffic, and crowds on New Year’s morning in Pasadena, California, where we used to venture for merrymaking on Colorado Boulevard, home of the annual Rose Parade, a local tradition for 135 years. Attendance for 2024 was just reported to be an astounding 800,000. Now, we kick back inside the warmth of our living room to watch the parade on television, hear detailed commentary on the parade floats, marching bands, and other entries, not to mention fantastic aerial views. But on this New Year’s Day I had the itch for outdoor adventure. Truthfully, this creature of habit  was thirsty for a hot cup of Joe. While at my coffee hangout the day before, I made sure to read the holiday hours on a typed sheet of paper taped on the front door. My eyes caught “January …8:00a.m. - ….” Got it. (That’s all I saw because the bottom right side had curled up slightly covering some of the text.) Beautiful clear skies made for quintessential New Year’s Day Parade weather. I drove along Del Mar Boulevard that runs south of and parallel to Colorado Boulevard. Side streets were blocked off to car traffic but open to parade-goers on foot. A  sight for sore eyes, I recalled our parade-going days. It’s the West Coast’s equivalent to New Year’s Eve at Madison Square Gardens in New York City. At each stoplight, I smiled as people wrapped in blankets crossed the street in front of me. Others pulled wagons loaded with gear, kids and dogs. Resourceful ones brought ladders as their own bleacher seating. And the parking lot at Pasadena City College was filled with shiny tour buses and a long row of porta potties. At the Del Mar Metro Station trains were coming and going. It was a non-stop day on the rails. The industrial area of Raymond Avenue, where Jones coffeehouse is located, looked like a ghost town. Three cars were in the parking lot. I am early, I thought to myself. It was not yet 8:00 a.m. But I didn’t see anyone else hanging around. So, before schlepping my computer with me, I got out of the car to read again the holiday hours sign taped on the door: In bold letters was, “JANUARY 1:  CLOSED.” Oops. I turned around and headed home to my French press. About a mile past the parade route, I saw folks standing on the sidewalk holding their cell phone cameras towards the mountain. What are they photographing, I wondered. Then I decided to get off Del Mar and take a residential side street named Lotus. Suddenly, above my car, appeared the incredulous B-2 Stealth Bomber – passing over as if in slow motion and so low I could see details on its underside. My mouth dropped. Before I could say, “Holy ----,” the black wing-shaped military plane -- that looked more like an alien ship – was gone. Stealth Bomber flyovers have been highlights of the Rose Parade and Rose Bowl football games since 2005. And each year when it completes the flyover, we attempt to catch a glimpse of the stealth bomber passing over our house at higher altitude. Half the excitement is hearing it before we see it. Later, I reflected on that Stealth Bomber sighting. Hmm, perhaps my itch to get a cup of Joe was just the lure. The drive to Pasadena, watching happy parade-goers, and checking the coffee shop’s holiday hours again was the journey -- and veering onto Lotus was the destination -- where I came “eye-to-eye” with the B2. I reflected once more. The last time I detoured onto Lotus (around Thanksgiving) was also a magical moment:  As I drove, the end of a rainbow appeared against the mountain. Not the arch, but the end, something I have never seen before. It planted itself into the foothills. It is said that a pot of gold is at the end of the rainbow. I will have to turn onto Lotus more often. Lotus is the name of a flower. At night its petals close as it returns to dark waters. When the sun rises at dawn, it blooms again. It’s no wonder that in some cultures the mysterious Lotus is a symbol of resilience, strength and rebirth. My New Year’s Day adventure saw serendipity at its best. HAPPY 2024! PREVIOUS ENTRY

A family-owned coffee roastery + beer, wine, and kombucha on tap + live music and good company = community and a better world. Only at Jones Coffee Roasters and Crush Pad, Raymond Avenue, Pasadena, California. And in the spirit of the season, I share a quote from my dear friend’s holiday card to us, which she “borrowed shamelessly” from a message she received years ago. It’s for you to share as well. Care deeply, think kindly, act gently And be at peace with the world PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY

One hour’s drive south of Portland, Oregon, lies the Willamette Valley, land of world-class pinot noir, hops heaven and change-makers who are transforming the future of travel. Towns thrive along the great Willamette River, including Portland, its largest city. It’s also home to Salem, the state capital, and over half of the state’s population lives here. In a rented car my husband and I left the big city for country roads and the throw-back town of Newberg -- the gateway to Oregon wine country. It’s cultivated by forward-thinking entrepreneurs, winemakers, brew masters, and restaurateurs with much in common: love for the mighty river, the region’s bounty, and mindful tourism. Our first stop was the pastoral setting of Nicolas-Jay Winery’s tasting room, a partnership of long-time friends American Jay Boberg, music executive/passionate oenophile, and noted French winemaker Jean-Nicolas Meo of Domaine Meo-Camuzet in Burgundy, France, where producing some of the finest pinot noir is, well, his domain. Wine here is made in the Burgundian tradition highlighting the region’s superior terroir for growing pinot noir and chardonnay, both native to Burgundy. That morning Boberg took a break from tasting and testing grapes in the vineyards to share with us some delicious pride and joy. From chardonnay made in the style of crisp Chablis to its eight-vineyard pinot noir blend, we got a taste of Nicolas-Jay’s holistic, non-interventionist approach to elegant winemaking where truly pure wines are made in the vineyard. Rolling into Newberg’s revitalized downtown took us back to its early days as a 19th century pioneering city energized with 21st century dynamics. Like our lodging at Yamhill Flats in a historic building rejuvenated into upscale suites. In the heart of town, our cozy private pad was steps from outstanding restaurants, tasting rooms, and shopping. At Chapters Books and Coffee, an independent bookstore and popular hub housed in what used to be an 1891 dry goods and grocery store, we connected with friendly locals waking up with morning cups of joe. And across the street at Good Company Cheese Bar and Bistro were sumptuous cheeses and charcuterie. An extensive career as a cheese monger led Kristen Kidney to open her shop “bridging the gap between artisanal cheesemakers, preserving traditional cheeses, and bringing people good things to eat.” A few doors away, we stepped into Et Fille Tasting Room and met owner/winemaker Jessica Mozeico. She shared with us how 2022 was the comeback year. “We had frost at bud break, the wettest and coolest spring on record. We didn’t know when the growing season would start. Then July was hot and dry -- and it all came together.” In 2003 Mozeico, a biotechnologist, joined her software engineer father to start the winery (winemaking was his hobby and she was his right arm). But his untimely passing in 2017 challenged Jessica to continue. Fast forward to 2023, Et Fille, French for “and daughter,” will celebrate 20 years of creating complex and graceful wines honoring the legacy of her father and the future of her daughter. As the sun set, our 20-minute drive to historic McMinnville for dinner acquainted us with another lively turn-of-the-century town known for its art galleries, gastronomy, wine, and boutiques. At Humble Spirit restaurant a sophisticated vibe, extensive wine list, and our divine meal turned into a culinary adventure. Oregon is also on the map as the second largest hop-growing state in the country. Hop is the plant. Hops are the flowers that give beer its bitter taste and fruity flavors. At Wolves & People Farmhouse Brewery, beer tender Brandon Anderson accommodated my wine-loving tendencies as he introduced a fabulous flight of originally crafted crushed pilsner, florette grisette, oude vat and Benjamin Plum. It was the vision of founder Christian DeBenedetti to reinvigorate his 1853 family farm into a working brewery where agriculture, including hops, has been cultivated for generations. An overnight adventure program with First Nature tours took us farther off the tourist path and kayaking on the mighty river in the college town of Independence. Through First Nature’s partnership with the Willamette Valley Visitors Association, the Transformational Travel Council, and award-winning Left Coast Winery, we got a taste of a region on the pioneering cusp of regenerative tourism. While sustainable tourism protects existing natural and social environments from negative impacts caused by over tourism, regenerative tourism is the next chapter, inviting active involvement in nourishing destinations for the enjoyment of future visitors. We dove into this hands-on opportunity at Left Coast Winery, owned and operated by the multi-generational Pfaff family, in the bucolic town of Rickreall near Salem. Here, before a lunch of wood-fired pizza and exquisite wine tasting under the canopy of a magical oak forest, we toured the property’s expansive oak savanna and learned about its significance to the Willamette Valley. Indigenous to the region, white oaks are fire resistant. Also, vegetation throughout the savanna is habitat for flora and wildlife. Through federal and state grants, the Pfaff family has committed to maintaining the long-term health of this precious refuge. Thanks to the stewardship programs offered through First Nature, we participated in this noble project as we planted oak saplings near the winery. While breaking bread and savoring every sip of Left Coast’s world-class wines, we toasted to a job well done. Getting dirt in our fingernails never felt so good. WHEN YOU GO: Learn more about Willamette Valley: https://willamettevalley.org/ Nicolas-Jay Winery: https://www.nicolas-jay.com Good Company Cheese Bar & Bistro: https://goodcompanycheese.com/ Et Fille Wines: https://www.etfillewines.com/ Wolves & People Farmhouse Brewery: https://www.wolvesandpeople.com First Nature Tours: https://firstnaturetours.com/ Left Coast Estate: https://leftcoastwine.com/ Yamhill Flats: https://www.lifestylepropertiesoregon.com Independence Hotel: https://theindependencehotel.com PUBLISHED STORY ON CREATORS.COM: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/06/23/pinot-noir-hops-and-regeneration-in-the-willamette-valley

On a cool summer evening after attending an exhibition at the Laguna Art Museum, my artist daughter and I walked the serene streets of Laguna Village. A grace to this town stood out from the atmosphere of other Southern California beach towns: art galleries on just about every block, a 1923 Craftsman home turned popular dining spot, and down the street romantic Hotel Laguna on the bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean. During its heyday, Hollywood stars escaped to this once-secluded arts colony. Then we approached the Irvine Bowl amphitheater on Laguna Canyon Road. The woodsy open-air venue is home to world-famous Pageant of the Masters, the mesmerizing internationally renowned performance and visual arts production of tableaux vivants (French for living pictures), the ancient art form of people imitating art. In 1933 the pageant began as a tiny makeshift stage the size of two phone booths. It was the brainchild of the isolated town’s creative inhabitants to help draw visitors to Laguna’s second Festival of Arts that showcased the works of local artists but was off the beaten path. That community effort put Laguna on the tourist map. Ninety seasons later the event has reigned as the heart of the eight-week long festival held from July through August or early September each year. Only two events in history cancelled the pageant – World War II and the COVID 19 pandemic. After the sun goes down, the stage comes to life, literally, under starry skies with replicas of classical masterpieces and contemporary works of art. Don’t blink. Look closely to spot which figures in a sculpture or painted into the canvas are masterful cast members – real people -- holding still as can be. Dan Duling, a Los Angeles resident and the pageant’s scriptwriter since 1981, is a testament to the majesty and magic that still holds him captive. He recalled the first time he stepped foot inside the 2,600-seat venue. “Built into a small canyon just blocks from the beach, its intimate setting with greenery all around quickly became my favorite outdoor venue,” he said, making it worth his commute to Orange County. Duling continued as scriptwriter when Diane Challis took over the reins as pageant director in 1996. Both came from lives in the theater. “With similar aesthetic sensibilities of what the show can be,” said Duling, “… we have been able to transform it into as much a theatrical show as possible without being disrespectful to the art or unfaithful to the traditions of tableaux vivants.” Duling and Challis strive to make the show as inclusive as possible in order to reach a large and diverse audience. “We believe that art has something for everyone at every age,” Duling said. “The show is a great date night, but it’s also a wonderful place for grandparents to bring their grandchildren.” Guests are treated to an entertaining and educational evening of high art, and no two shows are the same. Last year’s theme, “Wonderful World,” was a reminder that “Art in every culture expresses our common humanity.” From France, the Netherlands, Greece and Copenhagen to Egypt, China, Thailand, Japan, Africa, and more, adults and young guests in the audience took a journey around the globe by way of great masterpieces: “Le Pont-Neuf,” “Figure Drinking in a Courtyard,” “Porch of the Maidens,” “The Little Mermaid,” “Day of the Dead,” “Dancing Girls of Cairo,” “Xi’an Warriors,” “Guardians of the Temple,” “Cherry Blossom Viewing,” and “Makishi Dancers of Zimbabwe” figurines. While the pageant theme changes each season, one tableau ends the show every year: “The Last Supper” by Leonardo da Vinci. In our digital age of online entertainment, the appeal and success of this live event is extraordinary and could never be achieved without the dedication of hundreds of volunteers (including generations of families) who return year after year. They are the “lifeblood, heart and soul” of the pageant -- from cast members to costume and headpiece designers to make up artists, backstage assistants and restaurant services. No corners are cut, explained Duling. Narration of the program is live, not recorded. So is the original score performed by a 28-piece professional orchestra. Before curtain call, the juried summer Art Show, among the country’s oldest and most recognized fine art events, takes place outside the amphitheater doors. From paintings, sculpture and jewelry to glass, ceramics, and furniture pieces along with live music, a wine bar, and plenty of tables for casual dining and relaxing. The Junior Art Exhibit, a program of the Festival of Arts, showcases the exceptional talent of local student artists. At this time of year, out of towners and locals attending the pageant make a vacation or stay-cay out of their visit to Laguna, where rustic canyon meets the beach. While poking around the village’s boutique shops and art galleries, lunching at legendary Greeter’s Corner Restaurant on the beach with a view of Laguna’s historic lifeguard stand and grabbing a cappuccino at a neighborhood coffee shop, it wasn’t unusual to hear someone say, “I’m here for the pageant.” The theme for this year’s pageant is “Art Colony: In the Company of Artists,” a celebration of artists embracing or creating communities inspired by Laguna’s pioneering artists who gave birth to the Pageant of the Masters – the only one in the world. WHEN YOU GO: The 90th Festival of Arts and Pageant of the Masters takes place July 7 – September 1, 2023. To reserve tickets or for general information: https://www.foapom.com/ For information about visiting and lodging in Laguna: https://www.visitlagunabeach.com/ PUBLISHED STORY ON CREATORS.COM: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/03/23/lagunas-pageant-of-the-masters-is-90-years-old

A magnificent sunrise appeared this morning. We hear you playing your guitar and singing beautiful canciones! Te queremos. PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY

Gorgeous colorful blooms inside our home have lasted over a week. Each day I have felt like the luckiest person in the world to wake up to this uplifting palette. Suddenly I am reminded that today is the first day of spring in the Northern Hemisphere. Last Saturday, Jacqueline picked up fresh flowers at the farmers market for a dinner gathering we were hosting. While Louie and I worked in the kitchen, she did her magic “planting” the flowers around the house rummaging through the cupboards finding vessels of all shapes and sizes. I never imagined that flowers on top of the water cooler could transform the mud room. Or a cluttered corner on the kitchen counter – or that there is space on the windowsill for a flower vase. Last year when our friends hosted dinner, we brought our young Paloma, an English Cream Golden Retriever, who couldn’t wait to wrestle with Gus, a Labrador Retriever. With a stern bark he instantly schooled Paloma that he is an old guy who can’t play like a puppy. Paloma instantly heeded the call and entertained herself quietly the rest of the night by exploring every inch of their backyard on her own. This time around they remembered each other like old friends. Spring is also the onset for Daylight Savings Time. Before the night was over, my friend reminded me to turn the clocks forward. After losing an hour of sleep, we all had a hard time waking up the next morning. Including Paloma. PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY

The other day Chef Louie was making a fried egg for me…then took a business phone call. Oops. It was a bit overcooked. But I LOVE crispy edges and thought it was gorgeous. I picked it up and ate it like a soft taco. Perfection! Chef is onto something. PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY

When I arrived in Cancun, Mexico’s subtropical paradise on the Yucatan Peninsula, I thought my hotel looked familiar. Sure enough, near the glistening pool overlooking the Caribbean Sea was the very spot where I bought a cloisonne bracelet back in the 1990s while on a business trip with my husband. A lasting memory was the spell of Cancun’s turquoise waters. “Let’s go snorkeling!” I remember saying, even though I had never snorkeled before. In his motorboat, our guide took us to deeper waters where I bobbed gleefully in the buoyant saltwater. But when the guys dove down into the coral reef leaving me alone, panic got the best of me. It took time to recover from that misadventure, but my recent visit to Cancun turned into a reacquainting in more ways than one. In the 1960s Cancun in the state of Quintana Roo was a narrow 14-mile long deserted island of white sand dunes. It is shaped like the figure 7, the symbol of perfection and eternal life. No wonder the Mexican government’s search stopped here while on the hunt for a magical place that would attract tourism to Mexico. By 1970 the building of the planned city of Cancun began, and 1974 welcomed the opening of its international airport. Cancun became the gateway to some of the most significant ruins in the Yucatan -- such as the ancient city of Chichen Itza -- and is today a major economic engine for the country. This back story explained the miles of high-rise resorts lining Kulkucan Boulevard aka the Hotel Zone. On our way from the airport, my friendly driver, Matteo, talked about the Yucatan’s ancient Maya civilization and shared that he is Maya. “The Mayan language is like Chinese, he said,” and spoke a few words for me. Short tonal sounds were evidence of the two cultures that intersected some five thousand years ago. An off-season visit here was the antidote to life in the city and dispelled Cancun’s “spring break” reputation. That’s when college students descend on the Caribbean mecca, and the label seems to stick year-round. Like déjà vu, the mesmerizing Caribbean teased me as I looked out from the balcony of my seventh-floor guest room. In the distance was Isla Mujeres or Island of Women that was inhabited by the indigenous Maya long before the birth of Cancun. I was staying at the point of “the 7,” a prime (and quieter) location in the northern half of the Hotel Zone. Here waves are kind, and the softest sand cuddled my toes while I dined barefoot at Nah K’aax, the hotel’s romantic Tulum-style restaurant on the beach. What was meant to be a quick dinner on my first day became a two-hour affair while I munched on Asian-fusion tapas, chatted with friendly staff, and listened to relaxing tunes played by a deejay stationed on the sand between my table and the darkness of the sea. This was the Cancun I was looking for. The hotel I remembered from the ‘90s was even more beautiful. An airy lobby with a skylight four stories above, sparkling marble, draping vines, palm trees, a sunken “patio,” and scattered café tables felt like the outdoors. It took no time to embrace the liberating all-inclusive rhythm of this enormous 602-room property. Guests here never reach for their wallets to pay for activities, entertainment, drinks, and meals at its eight-plus restaurants ranging from casual to fine dining, because these costs are included in their room rates. Taking it to the next level, I found added respite in the Infinite Club where I checked in on the 11th floor. Dramatic views of the Caribbean and the massive Nichupte Lagoon are the backdrops for scrumptious continental breakfast in the mornings and delicious bites in the afternoons as well as cocktails, coffee and tea. Special perks include (among others) soothing hydrotherapy at its internationally acclaimed Gem Spa, and for parents with young guests, the ginormous Kidz Club made me wish that I had a little one again. An extraordinary dining experience was The Table. In a private room with a wraparound video screen surrounding a long table, fellow guests and I stepped into a high-tech cultural odyssey. Over a curated multi-course dinner, Mexico’s timeline came to life through video mapping, storytelling, performers, and live indigenous music. Watching a prehistoric reptile saunter across my dinner plate was magical. Alberto Gurrola, managing director of Grand Fiesta Americana Coral Beach Cancun, shared that The Table is among the first dining events of this kind in the world. “Our hope is that each guest leaves the experience with a deeper understanding of Mexico’s celebrated history.” For a dose of authentic Mexico, a ferry ride to Isla Mujeres (the hotel has its own dock and ferry tickets are complimentary for Infinite Club members) treated me to the colors and laid-back mood of local island life. Here, water sports, shops and cafes are aplenty and golf carts are the mode of transport for visitors. “Isla” is as popular as Cancun minus miles of high-rise resorts. Back at the hotel I swam laps in the inviting, blue-tiled pool. This was also my moment to face the blunder of my aforesaid misadventure. Meandering through lush gardens, I trekked to the red chaise lounges -- the private beach for Infinite Club members. After an attendant spread a fresh towel on my chair and set down a bucket of juices, I stretched out while analyzing the body of water in front of me. Before long, I walked deep into the waters letting the warmth of the sea embrace me -- and treaded happy as can be. IF YOU GO: Grand Fiesta Americana Coral Beach Cancun Spa Resort (Stand Alone Website): https://www.coralbeachcancunresort.com/ Grand Fiesta Americana Coral Beach Cancun: https://www.grandfiestamericana.com/hoteles-y-resorts/grand-fiesta-americana-coral-beach-cancun-all-inclusive-spa-resort Mexican Caribbean Tourism: https://www.caribemexicano.travel/ PUBLISHED STORY ON CREATORS.COM: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/01/23/a-reset-in-cancun

Happy Holidays and end-of-year greetings to you! From the bottom of my heart, I hope that you and those dear to you are healthy and well and have made it through 2022 without major incident. But if you were faced with more difficulties than you bargained for, I hope your year is closing on a brighter note. To continuing and new subscribers, as well as those who don’t subscribe (but I hope will), I thank you immensely for tuning into my website’s travel, food, and drink stories; photo essays (new this year); and my Diary Column musings that I passionately write and share with you. I embrace the “likes” and fun comments of those who relate to the sentiments of my tales. A lovely follower told me that she looks forward to reading my stories before going to bed. Thank you, Jackie. If my efforts help you to unwind, it has been my humble pleasure. Many thanks also for your patience when I have been MIA (missing in action) for short stretches between posts. My days manage to get away from me, too! It has been almost three years since I launched my site at the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic -- March 13, 2020. Soon after, life-saving medical advances clamped down on the rise of infectious cases and hospitalizations. And most everyone did their part wearing face masks to help mitigate spread of the virus. As case numbers went down, our hopes for an end to the pandemic soared. I wish I could say we are out of the woods, but that thought has been dashed with the flu and RSV thrown into this winter’ mix. Most people are no longer wearing masks, cases are rising again, and hospital wards are maxing out. Indeed, a lot has changed, a lot has stayed the same, and COVID is here to stay. Just as my family was preparing to spend this Christmas Eve with relatives in San Clemente by the beach, we decided to test for the virus the day before to be sure all is clear. We had evaded catching COVID for almost three years. Louie did, however, have what appeared to be an innocent cough. I tested negative. But not Louie. We stared down at the test tray and couldn’t believe two stripes were staring back at us. “It” finally got him. How he got it, we will never know for sure. But on a recent morning Louie, who usually wears a mask when he walks Paloma, left home without it. He stepped into our local Starbucks to pick up the espresso that I had ordered for him on my Starbucks app. It was crowded with holiday goers, and none were wearing masks. He recalled a man standing nearby sneezing without covering his mouth. Yuk. After a second positive test, we faced the music that we would not be celebrating Christmas as a group. So, we put on our big boy and big girl undies. I immediately called our doctor who prescribed Paxlovid, the wonder med for people “old” like us. Thankfully, Louie’s only symptom was a mild cough. No scratchy throat, no congestion, no fever, no fatigue. In fact, he was so energetic, he cooked our Christmas meal – heavenly albondigas soup (he double checked that the virus is not transmissible through food). It was an odd and quiet Christmas Day. No kiss under the mistletoe. And like trying to dance together, it was a challenge adapting to our new reality in our 1,000 square-foot home with a narrow hallway and one bathroom. Louie was better at being paranoid than I was because he didn’t want me to catch it. “Get away!” he would tell me politely through his mask as we tried to tango around the house without touching. He sanitized everything he put his hands on. And following doctor’s orders to rest, drink lots of liquids and to take Paxlovid for five days, Louie tested negative on the fourth day and remains negative. We can’t be more grateful for his fast recovery, especially because each winter Louie falls victim to the flu that wreaks havoc on his respiratory system. Since Christmas, I have heard one person after another tell me that they or someone dear to them has the virus. Please, let’s not let down our guard. Mask up. Wash your hands. Keep your distance. And cover your mouth when you sneeze. Gracias a Dios, we will be able to welcome the New Year as a family. HAPPY NEW YEAR, MY FRIENDS. LET’S MAKE 2023 A HEALTHY ONE! Athena PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY

When you fly, do you prefer the aisle seat or window seat? When I was, uh, younger, I loved sitting at the window watching the world from above. Older and wiser now, I abide by my late mother’s sound advice: “The fastest way from A to B is a straight line.” Indeed, an aisle seat to the lavatory is the only way to endure a long flight. But on a recent trip to Cancun, Mexico, I got stuck with a window seat. When the going gets tough, the tough hangs in there. This inconvenient seat assignment, though, was instantly tossed out the window the moment the engines roared, followed by the exhilaration of lift off. While fellow passengers gazed into their smartphones and laptops, watched movies, or took a snooze, I pressed my Google Pixel against the window as we took flight over the sparkling Pacific Ocean and suburbia along Southern California’s coast. Before reaching the planned city of Cancun on the Yucatan Peninsula (in the state of Quintana Roo), our descent from the clouds opened to the Caribbean Sea and a coastline dense with jungles. It had been a long time since my last visit to Cancun. Story coming soon. PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY

There’s something special about small town spirit. The Saturday after Thanksgiving Sierra Madre switched on the holiday lights to jumpstart this special time of year. Walks into town are a lot more colorful now. PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY

The unknown is always exciting, especially when it comes to food. Our dinners are usually planned on the fly. Last week Chef Louie started grabbing things from the fridge: a carton of organic eggs, fresh spinach, leftover refried beans from taquito take-out night a few days before, salsa from the same take-out dinner that he mixed with the ground veal that we made for tacos a few days before the taquitos. Our romantic dinner beautifully came together with our favorite wines from Tablas Creek and Lone Madrone. Whether simple or elaborate, meals are the best when they are made with love! PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY