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In the central plains of Boeotia, Greece, between Athens and the Corinthian Gulf I found the muse in Thiva – or Thebes as the Greeks know it. From a family who makes “holy bread” to the stomping grounds of Hercules and Jason and his Argonauts, from a feast with the Greeks to afternoon coffee with the priest at a 16th century monastery, then walking the marble floors at the third incarnation of an archaeological museum that started in military barracks. Who wouldn’t be inspired? Soon after arriving in Thiva, we met father-son team Spiros and Vasilis Kaskaveliotis who have been baking pastries and their specialty bread for churches since 1991 -- 9,000 loaves a year to be exact -- in their modest facility. Round golden loaves the size of a dinner plate come out from the oven, are stamped with a special symbol, then tenderly sliced and packaged for priests who offer the bread to parishioners after church service. We received our own bagged samplings of the mildly flavored bread made with anise from Syria and Turkey and found its taste to be a lot like lovely brioche. The Kaskaveliotises are also pasta makers. In another part of the shop we watched as preservative-free dough was transformed into splendid flat strands, then placed in a cabinet of drying drawers. The Kaskaveliotis pastas are sold all around Thiva and Greece, and England is one of their few international markets. Watching fresh fettuccini dangling from the press tested my temptation to snatch a tasting! Thiva has certainly had its share of history having been continuously inhabited for, give or take, 5,000 years. It was a powerful city-state during Greece’s Golden Age along with Athens and Corinth and during the 4th century BCE it was the most powerful city in Greece. Today, Thiva is the largest city in the Boeotia regional unit with a population of almost 37,000 inhabitants. And had it not been for major victories during the Persian and Peloponnesian wars -- and many battles in between that decided the fate of western civilization -- we may not know democracy, Classical literature, theater, architecture, or spinach pies. Ripe for cultivating crops, the region today thrives with agriculture – cotton (it was fall harvest), melons, olives, and wheat. Onions, potatoes and carrots are also cultivated and exported. And we can thank Cadmus, the first king of Thiva, for founding the birthplace of mythological gods and goddesses, heroes and heroines. “We are in the land of Hercules. He was born in Thebes,” said our Greek guide Panagis Germenis. And in the port village of Aliki where we tramped around castle ruins, we learned that it was here that Jason and his Argonauts departed on their expedition to find the Golden Fleece. Hercules known for his strength and endurance was recruited for Jason’s dream team; and the goddess Athena joined the cause by calling on the great craftsman Argo to build Jason’s ship. While in Aliki we refueled with lunch at a fish tavern on the Corinthian coast before continuing our modern-day expedition in Thiva. Joined by welcoming representatives from the Thiva municipality, we broke bread family-style with dishes that poured out from the kitchen – Greek salad, grilled calamari, Atherina (small fish), and slices of fresh feta cheese. And when two gorgeously grilled whole tsipoura graced our end of the long table, my Greek table mate, Dinos, pointed to the Corinthian Gulf and said in thoughtful English, “We caught it last night!” In our digital age, smartphones are great tools for bringing cultures together. As we savored every morsel on our plates, Dinos brought out his cell phone to better explain a local festival in Thiva. Through a selfie he had taken, I delighted in seeing a colorful outdoor procession of young men and women in beautiful traditional costumes celebrating Greek Halloween. We then drove to higher ground to visit Panagia Makariotisa, a 12th century Christian monastery where we met Father Theodosious. By this time, after roaming the southern and northern coasts of the Corinthian Gulf, we had seen a handful of the region’s countless monasteries learning that no two are the same. During different periods of destruction -- the Ottoman-Turkish invasion and bombings by the Nazis during World War II – the monastery managed to survive thanks to the efforts of monks determined to bring it back to life. Father Theodosious led us to the monastery’s ancient gate and the uneven cobbled path that my clogs carefully navigated as we followed Father until we reached a lovely room that had been set up for us to relax while enjoying Greek coffee as well as pastries, yogurt, rice pudding and chocolate milk – made by the monks. And before we left the monastery, Father gave us a humble blessing. Then, I walked quietly through the sanctuary’s modest “gift shop” and selected a few items for purchase. Lo and behold, who was there to ring me up? Father Theodosious. With time for one more Greek wine tasting, we headed for nearby Thivaiki Gi Winery and Vineyards where we met producer Panos Katrisiosis and winemaker Yiannis Flerianos who studied oenology at the California University at Davis. Following his informative introduction to the winemaking process, we enjoyed exquisite tastings of varietal wines and blends from both Greek and international varieties. Distribution of its wines to different parts of the world – Australia, United States, Germany, and Dubai -- is a sure indicator that Greek wines have arrived on the international stage. The “centerpiece” of Thiva was saved for our last day – the new Archaeological Museum of Thebes that had just opened a few months before. If only all museum guides could be like Popi Georgopoulou who explained the archaeological exhibits like a passionate storyteller. After all, the museologist-historian-anthropologist was involved in designing Greece’s “newest” museum – a state-of-the-art makeover since it first opened its doors as an official museum in 1905, inspired by the growing collection of antiquities that had been warehoused inside barracks next to a medieval tower. The museum represents the complete timeline of Greek history from the Bronze Age until the 1830s when the modern state of Greece was established as well as the archaeological findings from throughout Boeotia – one of the richest regions of ancient Greece. “The importance of an exhibit is not just its beauty,” Georgopoulou shared. “…Even a humble thing can be very important.” Then she pointed to tiny clay vases sitting in old crumpled newspapers. “These German newspapers were used to wrap, hide, and protect items during World War II.” They were found during arduous excavations. And many more still take place today – such as the ongoing excavation underneath the museum that we viewed through transparent flooring. Outside in the courtyard we walked to a row of nine clay bases -- the Sanctuary of the Muses, the sister goddesses who inspired mortals and were protectors of the arts and sciences. It is said that the Muses were the most esteemed of all the Olympic deities. We wondered why only the bases were on exhibit and not the Muses. “Museum” comes from the word muse, said Georgopoulou. “And houses were made for the Muses,” she continued. Those houses – or museums – are found all over the world. I really did find the Muse, and then some, in Thiva. Published version: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/05/17/finding-the-muse-and-more-in-thiva IF YOU GO: For complete information about visiting Arachova and Delphi, visit www.visitgreece.gr Thivaiki Gi Winery & Vineyards. www.thivaikigi.gr I stayed at Hotel Dionysion: www.dionysionthiva.gr PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (9 images) Gallery 2 (13 images)

My story is published with TraveLife magazine at: http://www.travelife.ca/DESTINATIONS/Europe2/tabid/533/ArticleID/2482/Skiers-cross-the-line-in-Switzerland.aspx After reading the story, return here to enjoy additional images of the Ski Marathon, Pontresina village, and the historic Grand Hotel Kronenhof. PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (13 images) Gallery 2 (11 images)

When my small tour group reached Xylocastro, a seaside village of 5,800 inhabitants on the Corinthian Gulf in Greece, I was already smitten with this romantic region. About a two-hour drive northwest of Athens and a hop, skip and a jump from Corinth, enchanting Xylocastro is where the beach and the pine forest meet. No wonder it’s often called the most beautiful resort town on the northern coast of the Peloponnesian Peninsula, or simply, the Peloponnese. Throughout history the area has attracted intellectuals, writers, artists, and poets. Xylocastro means “castle of wood” and was named for the wooden hilltop watchtower built by the Venetians who had settled in the area during the 13th century. Through time, the once densely-wooded area was almost completely cleared so that the land could be cultivated for growing grapes. Thank goodness for its “useless” sandy soil, the pine forest of Pefkias on the beach remained untouched. Pefkias today stretches along the clean and pristine beaches between Xylocastro and the neighboring coastal village of Sykia. It’s a protected habitat with varieties of plants, trees, insects, birdlife, and small wildlife where hiking and bicycling are allowed, but not cars. We stopped at City Hall where the mayor of Xylocastro, Elias Andrikopoulos, welcomed us like friends. Housed in a 19th century mansion painted pale yellow surrounded by wrought iron gates and the rich blue sea as its backdrop, the municipality’s offices felt more like an aristocratic residence. As Mr. Andrikopoulos shared the town’s attributes – the sea, the mountains, a ski center, ancient monasteries, and the pine forest -- he exuded deep pride in the “hard-working, dedicated, and hospitable people of Xylocastro.” Together, we strolled along the quiet marina (that later would come alive with the town’s famous nightlight), greeted a friendly fisherman who showed us his morning catch, then paid respects at the magnificent Byzantine Church of Agios Vlasios designed after the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens. With views of the heavenly gulf, it was named after Agios Vlassios, the Bishop of Sevasteia and the patron saint of Xylocastro. And while walking the lush grounds at our hotel in Sykia, curiosity got the best of me. I couldn’t take my eyes off the pink stone villa that was once the summer home of Angelos Sikelianos, one of Greece’s most admired poets and playwrights of the 20th century. Built in 1916, he lived in the villa with his first wife, Eva Palmer-Sikelianos, an American from New York. The dynamic couple was a force in the arts when they founded the Delphic Festival with the goal to bring people together from around the globe to encourage communication and mutual respect through music (Byzantine concerts), folk art, and sports reminiscent of the ancient Pythian Games. Two Delphic Festivals were held, in 1927 and 1930, at the archaeological site of Delphi funded entirely by the Sikelianos. The festival had reached international acclaim, but the financial burden of the extravagant fete broke the bank – and their marriage. Their noble contribution to humanity is a pride of the region’s history. In 1949, three years before his death, Angelos Sikelianos was nominated for the Nobel Prize in Literature, and the couple’s home in nearby Delphi is now a museum. By the late 1950s, the Sikelianos villa was purchased by ship owner Spyros Typaldos, considered the pioneer of Greek tourism. Today, the villa is part of the Sikyon Coast Hotel property where large portrait drawings of Angelos and Eva adorn the serene glassed lobby that frames views of the Pefkias forest directly outside. In the 21st century, olive orchards and vineyards continue to grace the landscape in nearby Melissi, a testament to the area’s rich agricultural legacy and proof that leveling the forest wasn’t necessarily for naught. Here, we met winemaker Dimitris Liakopoulos whose grandfather started the family’s organic wine and olive business, and Panos Kloutsiniotis, maker of Ladle extra virgin olive oil. The men have known each other since childhood and now represent the next generation of farmers and creative entrepreneurs passionate about continuing the labor of their ancestors and respecting traditions. After all, wine and olive oil have nourished the gods and mankind since forever. Liakopoulos and Kloutsiniotis invited us for wine and olive oil tasting by the poolside of Lido Hotel (owned by the Liakopoulos family) where guests can take private tours of the vineyards and olive orchards, learn about organic farming methods, and even partake in the fall harvest, winemaking, and olive picking. Kloutsiniotis “indoctrinated” us with a crash course on olives. “Start pruning in January, harvest in early November when olives are green…and by December the olives turn black as aromas become sweeter and more delicate.” The intensity of a grape’s flavor is judged as mild, medium, or robust. And the more robust an olive oil, the more nutritious it is. With that we were eager for the hands-on part of our lesson. It’s a bit like wine tasting. But rather than the five S’s -- see, swirl, smell, sip, and savor – we swirled the tiny cup of oil to release aromas, then slurped to allow the aromas to coat the mouth, then we savored the liquid gold. “Olives grow on the flat terrain of Melissi while our vineyards are on terraced slopes in the mountains,” said Liakopoulos. “It’s the only way to keep the vineyards cool at night because there is no ocean breeze -- like in California!” And that fall evening in Melissi could not have been more perfect as gentle waves lapped onto the pebbled beach just feet away. We tasted a range of local and international reds and whites, including two that I would call favorites -- the Liakopoulos Estate’s refreshing “Theenee” made from the Roditis grape, a white variety native to Greece and the family Syrah, “Kyllene,” with flavors of spice and “red forest fruit.” Greek wines have come a long way during the last decade, Liakopoulos explained, thanks to the number “well-educated Greek winemakers who went abroad to study great winemaking.” Visiting this region, I discovered that 80% of the country’s geography is mountains – and couldn’t wait to make our way to Trikala Korinthias, an ancient settlement of three mountain villages in Ziria, the massive mountain range above Xylocastro (known as Kyllini in antiquity) where eight of its peaks reach higher than 6,500 feet. According to Greek mythology, the goddess Hera and Hercules, “the strongest of all mortals,” lived on Kyllini. And the god Hermes was born here. He was the god of many things, including travelers and hospitality. And while many rarely say Greece and skiing in the same breath, the sport is alive and well in mountainous Greece, and Ziria is among its top ski resorts. A lasting memory in Trikala was when our group stopped for refreshments and a pop-up café suddenly unfolded. Two small tables and plenty of chairs were passed through the window of a tiny grocery store to the narrow road outside. There we sat on the roadside at almost 3,000 feet above sea level with a basket of bread, a plate of fresh Feta cheese in olive oil, a salad of tomatoes and olives, grapes, and divine Corinthian raisins that we grabbed by the handful from a huge plastic bag. Unpretentious and straight from the heart. That is what I call poetry. IF YOU GO: For complete information about Xylocastro and Greece, visit www.visitgreece.gr My accommodation: Skyon Coast Hotel Resort. www.skyoncoast.com Liakopoulos Estate. www.liakopoulos-estate.gr Ladolea Olive Oil. www.ladolea.gr Published version: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/04/17/find-good-food-open-hearts-in-xylocastro-greece PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (15 images) Gallery 2 (12 images)

Vancouver was ablaze in fall’s vivid palette. Maple leaves -- pink, yellow, orange, red, and burgundy -- dangled from tree branches and blanketed the sidewalks putting a spring in my step as my cousin and I walked leisurely around downtown exploring the most populous city in the Canadian province of British Columbia, known to many as the most beautiful cosmopolitan city on the west coast with a skyline as dramatic as New York City’s. Perfect weather that day called for an easy-breezy bicycle ride along the Seawall in Stanley Park, a National Historic Site of Canada and the “Jewel of Vancouver.” It’s not often we have the chance to cycle the circumference (six miles) of a 1,000-acre forested park (okay, we rode half of it) that looks like an island because it’s almost completely surrounded by water. Designed by Mother Nature and not man-made, it became the province’s first city park in 1888 and named after Governor General Lord Stanley. Jutting out into Vancouver Harbor and English Bay from the edge of downtown, Stanley Park is a short walk from hotels, condominiums, glass towers and Robson Street, Vancouver’s famous shopping district. Recently ranked in a TripAdvisor survey as the best park in the world, a good chunk of a day can be spent hiking, cycling, visiting the historic totem poles, the aquarium, gorgeous gardens, and sandy beaches. We cruised the bicycle lane while others enjoyed the walking path taking in the eclectic landscape of cruise ships, mountains, and skyscrapers. Vancouver is a multicultural metropolis of 604,000 residents (Greater Vancouver is 2.4 million strong), and its compact layout is wonderfully walkable thanks to a great public transportation system. Most here don’t even own a car. Using buses, ferries, and the Sky Train (subway and above-ground elevated guideways with 47 stops), we explored more of Vancouver’s must-see highlights -- Lookout Tower, Gastown, Canada Place, the Vancouver Art Gallery, and Granville Island. But not before making a sweet discovery of the culinary kind at “purebread” bakery recommended by locals where my taste buds jumped for joy at the sight of lemon-blueberry-basil, ginger cream, and buckwheat-sour cherry scones – delectable twists on the traditional British biscuit-like pastry. We worked our way up to the Lookout Tower observation deck 553 feet above street level to take in fantastic 360-degree views of autumn’s panorama, downtown’s surrounding attractions, and the sprawl of the peninsula. With a back yard like this, it’s no wonder health-minded Vancouverites love their outdoors year-round – including mild winters when snow rarely sticks, thanks to the ocean atmosphere. Off in the distance I spotted another city skyline wondering if it was Seattle. When I glanced down, a small plaque told the story. “Occasionally mistaken for Victoria or Seattle, the city on the horizon is Burnaby, a suburb of Greater Vancouver.” Nicknamed Metrotown, it is home to the largest shopping center in British Columbia, a “destination in itself” with theaters, world-class restaurants, and just 20 minutes away on the Sky Train. I could also see Gastown below, a block from the Lookout Tower. It was the area’s first settlement when it thrived as a logging town during the mid-1800s. Named after “Gassy Jack” who ran the local tavern, it was renamed Vancouver when the town became the railhead for the transcontinental railway in 1887 and played a major role linking the trade routes between Eastern Canada, Europe, and Asia. A National Historic Site, Gastown is bohemian, cultural, and a trendy spot with dining, shopping, nightclubs and art galleries exhibiting the finest examples of Inuit, Pacific Northwest Coast, Asian, and African art – and wonderfully charming at night when it’s all lit up. And just minutes from Gastown on the waterfront, Canada Place with its iconic rooftop resembling boat sails is the terminal for Alaskan cruise ships. It’s also home to the convention center, the World Trade Center -- and Flyover Canada, a crazy exhilarating simulation flight ride. While “airborne” I forgot I was inside a four-story theater as our feet dangled from suspended chairs and we magically “soared” coast to coast across Canada’s breathtaking wilderness. My hair blew in the wind and with the other special effects of mist and scents, I thought I was on my way to heaven. A visit to the Vancouver Art Gallery was saved for a lazy rainy day. Another National Historic Site, it’s one Sky Train stop from the Waterfront Station. Built in stately neoclassical style, it was originally Vancouver’s main courthouse designed by architect Francis Rattenbury who also designed B.C.’s Parliament Buildings and the Empress Hotel in Victoria. Inside, we treasured unrushed time perusing the museum’s outstanding exhibits of contemporary and historic works. The VAG’s world-class art collections include the Gund Collection’s rare First Nations totem poles, masks, sculptures and drawings; the Group of Seven, a Canadian band of 20th century painters who defined Canada through its majestic landscapes; and their contemporary, Emily Carr, who drew artistic inspiration during visits to indigenous villages, in turn becoming an important chronologist of British Columbia’s early history. Renowned as one of Canada’s most important artists (she was also an author), the Emily Carr University of Art and Design on Granville Island was named in her honor. By the time we left the museum, Soho Road food truck parked outside was cooking up savory tandoori chicken, lamb seekh, and spicy veg sabji. It’s just one of over 100 different food cart vendors that make up Vancouver’s thriving street food scene that ranks among the best in North America – a program actively supported by the local city council that can’t be happier with the life it brings to downtown. After our ambitious self-tour on foot, we took to the road with Alfred Esmeijer, proprietor of Vancouver Private Tours and a long-time resident of Vancouver (he’s originally from the Netherlands). This time we relaxed in a comfy Suburban as he zipped us around more corners of his proclaimed favorite city – Yaletown, Chinatown, the West End, the forested depths of Stanley Park, and the city’s charming neighborhoods. We stopped to walk around the outdoor plaza of the 2010 Winter Olympic Village-turned upscale community in Southeast Falsecreek. Originally a shipyard, the area had become an industrial waste land pre-Olympic Games. Thanks to regeneration efforts, the Olympic Village project received the LEED Platinum distinction as “the greenest, most energy efficient, and sustainable neighborhood on Earth.” A pair of gigantic sparrows standing 18 feet tall is the centerpiece of the plaza. The sculpture by Canadian artist Myfawny MacLeod is called “The Birds,” a thought-provoking tribute to biodiversity and film producer Alfred Hitchcock. And there’s no better way to feel the pulse of a city than hanging out in the lively atmosphere of the local marketplace. We got lost in the bustle of Granville Island Public Market, and the smaller, less touristy Lonsdale Quay Market in North Vancouver 15 minutes by Seabus from Waterfront Station where locals and visitors converge to socialize, dine, and shop. Displays of sweet summer fruit, divine cheeses, and candy-style smoked sockeye salmon bites teased us to no end. Even impressive works of art, jewelry, and clothing by local designers made me wish we could linger just a few more hours. We surrendered, though, to the irresistible Maple Swirl Buns -- sold one month only in the fall -- at Lonsdale Market. The warm pull-apart pastry dripping with glorious maple sugar just about brought me to tears. IF YOU GO: www.tourismvancouver.com www.vancouverprivatetours.com Published version: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/08/16/falling-for-vancouver-british-columbia PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (12 images) Gallery 2 (13 images)

Northern England, North Country, and The North are geographical nicknames for England’s upper half that is a world away from the country’s more visited south, or shall we say, London. Mention Manchester, and most seem to know it as an industrial city, myself included -- that is, until I thumbed through “Where to Go: Manchester,” a not so ordinary guidebook, that hooked me with its first line: “Look, we’re all friends here.” The guidebook’s prose read like a local’s narrative sharing the best, the hippest, the fascinating, the unusual, the most popular, the oldest, the newest, and hidden secrets around this beloved pioneering city -- the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution -- that rose from the ashes, literally, reinventing itself following the 1996 IRA bombing that destroyed the city center. And to fully understand The North, a visit here is not complete without a country drive through Yorkshire -- the largest county in the United Kingdom. Sometimes called “God’s Own Country” it is also the birthplace of saints, scientists, inventors, explorers, writers, artists, musicians, actors – and home to a greatly loved veterinarian. Surrounded as far as the eye can see by Yorkshire Dales National Park, it was a Norse kingdom in ancient times and known to historians as Scandinavian York. What also got me across the pond was news about flights from the United States to Manchester International Airport – I didn’t have to fly to London first then hop a train for the trek north. (In 2016 Los Angeles and Boston will begin non-stop flights between Manchester.) En route to my hotel my friendly Pakistani taxi driver offered a little history. “Manchester was known around the world for textile manufacturing,” he began. “…and many Pakistanis migrated here to work in the cotton mills. Pakistan, you see, was once a member of the British Commonwealth.” Peering out the cab window I saw a cool and lively metropolis – hipsters, white-collar workers, and fashionistas bustling through the urban landscape of magnificent Gothic buildings and 21st century glass towers. A unique sighting was the gold cotton boll topping the clock tower of Town Hall, one of the world’s finest examples of Gothic Revival architecture. During the height of the cotton trade (between the 18th and 19th centuries) Manchester was called “Cottonopolis” when it reached international dominance in cotton manufacturing -- thanks to the invention of the cotton gin in 1793 by American Eli Whitney combined with Manchester’s geography of rivers and streams that powered the mills and its canal system that transported goods. An industrial city no longer, Manchester’s pioneering legacy lives on through the old mills and warehouses that have been given new life as living quarters, shops, restaurants, entertainment venues, and lodging. So how fitting it was to check in at the Radisson Blu Edwardian inside the sandstone facade of the historic Free Trade Hall-turned concert hall-turned luxury hotel on Peter Street. The Italian Palazzo structure was built in 1853 on the site of the Peterloo Massacre to commemorate the peaceful meeting of over 60,000 who had gathered at Peter’s Fields in 1819 to hear pro-democracy and anti-poverty speeches when armed cavalry charged the group killing 16 and injuring 700 -- ready or not, Manchester, the first modern city, was blazing the uncharted trail of “new capitalism” as it evolved economically and socially. The totally modern 263-room hotel also pays homage to the earlier lives of this city landmark with low-key signage, a memorial plaque at the entrance, and guest rooms named after artists who have entertained the masses through the decades – Ella Fitzgerald, Bob Dylan, and Led Zeppelin, to name a few legends. Today, Manchester’ ethnically diverse population is over 500,000 strong – and in the forward-thinking Mancunian spirit – has reincarnated into a tech-centric post-industrial city bulging at the seams with culture and inspiration for fans of art, music, dining, fashion, football, science, and media. After a divine breakfast of kippers grilled in butter, I hit the streets and within 24 hours had visited four remarkable museums – the award-winning Whitworth, the Imperial War Museum, The Lowry arts center, and the Manchester Art Gallery. Town Hall with its collection of statuary, and the John Rylands Library founded by Rylands’ Cuban-born wife Enriqueta Augustina Rylands in memory of her husband and considered one of the world’s most beautiful libraries, are Gothic masterpieces and museums themselves. Chetham Library, in continuous use since 1653, is yet another gem of “literary Manchester.” It was here that German philosophers Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels met and wrote “The Communist Manifesto.” Museum-hopping in Manchester had turned into an activity as I traipsed around the city’s walkable streets mixing it up while exploring shops, the canals, a tea house (Proper Tea), and a wine merchant (Hanging Ditch) – scattered through the compact city’s various districts – Piccadilly, Castlefield, Chinatown, Oxford Road, the Northern Quarter, and Salford Quays where BBC North has offices at MediaCityUK. And the city’s highlight this year was the two-week long Manchester International Festival (aka MIF) held every two years. Launched in 2007 it is recognized as the world’s first and most important festival showcasing original new work in the performing and visual arts. Much anticipated Bjork opened MIF15 with an outdoor concert at Castlefield amphitheater mesmerizing fans with works from her new album, “Vulnicura.” And at the Palace Theater the premiere of “wonder.land” lit up the marquee. Co-produced with the National Theater in London, the thought-provoking and entertaining musical is a brilliant digital take on Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland and has moved to the National Theater for its winter line-up. The fantastic energy of Manchester was contagious and I could have stayed weeks. But ready for a bit of contrast and eager to explore the North Country’s famous landscapes, I hopped the train and ventured an hour and a half out of the city. First stop: The walled city of York. Founded by the Romans in 71AD and called “Eboracum,” the fortress was built where the Ouse and Foss rivers meet. By 866 it was captured by the Danes becoming the Viking kingdom of Jorvik (York) and a major port on the Viking trade route. The Middle Ages saw York as a major wool trading center; and by the beginning of the 20th century, the railway and confectionary industries dominated. York was certainly at the top of its game throughout history. And as I wandered the maze of cobblestoned streets, sat in the square, explored museums, fashion boutiques, chocolate shops, and famous Betty’s Tearoom (a Yorkshire institution), I embraced remnants of those early chapters in history – like the original fortress gates called “bars,” which explained the name of my lodging, Monkbar Hotel, named for the stone gate across the street; the remarkable Jorvik Viking Center -- built in 1984 after an entire Viking village was discovered during the planning of a shopping center – and remodeled in 2010 with high-tech animatronics as well as an extraordinary ride (really) back in time; and the “grand headquarters” of North Eastern Railway enjoys a rebirth as the Grand Hotel & Spa, York’s first five-star hotel. But the crown jewel of York is 800-year old York Minster that took 250 years to build and is one of the largest Medieval Gothic cathedrals in the world with a collection of the most intact Medieval stained glass. I had no idea of its size – until I turned the corner onto Deangate – when my jaw dropped. So the best way for visitors to enjoy a drive through the romantic expanse of the Yorkshire Dales is with someone who knows the lay of the land, like my driver and guide Alan Rowley, a Yorkshire native with a bit of Viking DNA (he believes) and proprietor of Yorkshire’s True Tours. With Rowley’s energy, encyclopedic mind, and sense of humor, the road trip was a lively minicourse onYorkshire. “Canola is grown here and is very good business,” said Rowley pointing to fields of rapeseed (called canola in North America). And during a pit stop at Beadlam Grange Farmshop and Tearoom in Helmsley, the heart-healthy liquid gold -- cold-pressed and bottled in Yorkshire -- lined the shelves. I also took note that no two fields are necessarily the same. “Wheat sways, barley stands.” Or is it the other way around? If there’s a place in Yorkshire that draws a pilgrimage, it’s the World of James Herriot museum in the village of Thirsk that honors the English veterinarian beloved throughout the world for his best-selling stories and television series about life as a country vet -- and in doing so put Yorkshire on the map. Who hasn’t read -- or knows someone who has read -- “All Creatures Great and Small”? In the three-story house where James Herriot (the pseudonym of James Alfred Wight) practiced for fifty years (and with his wife raised their children Jim and Rosie), visitors can see up close where he lived and worked, including the sitting room, pharmacy, surgery, veterinary exhibits, the BBC set for the TV series, endearing memorabilia of photos and Herriot’s handwritten letters, his books, and the stunning life-like statue of Herriot erected in the garden last spring. In May 2015 The World of James Herriot received the prestigious Gold Award for Best Small Visitor Attraction in England. When Rowley talked about local artist David Hockney and the UNESCO World Heritage township of Saltaire, I listened. The connection? The 1853 art gallery complex – named after the date Sir Titus Salt built what would become the historic Salt’s Mill -- is currently home to the largest collection of the artist’s works. During the Industrial Revolution Salt was a hugely successful wool manufacturer and a deeply compassionate philanthropist. In the late 19th century he built the industrial village of Saltaire (a combination of his name and the River Aire) to house thousands of mill workers and their families -- complete with a church, hospital and schools. Saltaire, designed with the highest architectural quality, is today a living community and tourist destination. Speaking of family, the “world’s most literary family,” the Brontes, leaves its legacy in Yorkshire. A walk through the rooms inside the Bronte Parsonage Museum in Haworth (the Brontes’ home from 1820 to 1861) is a peek into the hearts and minds that wrote some of the most profound 20th century classics, among them “Jane Eyre” (by Charlotte Bronte) and “Wuthering Heights” (by Emily Jane Bronte). Not far from Yorkshire, I rebooked my return flight in order to visit with dear friends in Derbyshire, the county next door. It was here that I finally sank my teeth into buttery, flaky Yorkshire pudding that I had been in search of all week (it’s typically made fresh -- at home -- for Sunday supper). Lo and behold, Manchester chalked up another star when I booked my last night at the Radisson Blu Hotel Manchester Airport, the city’s only lodging at the airport. When was the last time you slept in on your day of departure – because the airport terminal was right outside the door? This story published with Jetset Extra on November 20, 2015. Published version: http://jetsetextra.com/manchester-and-yorkshire-are-englands-cultural-sphere/ PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (19 images) Gallery 2 (13 images)

The Alps -- Europe’s highest and longest mountain range -- stretches over Italy, France, Monaco, Germany, Austria, Liechtenstein, Slovenia, and Switzerland. Its highest peaks over 13,000 feet above sea level cover most of Switzerland, a small country in the heart of the continent rendering its landscapes among the world’s most magical. Early tourists in the mid-19th century came to witness this splendor aboard the first adventurous mountain steam trains that huffed and puffed their way to the summits. As train navigation improved up, through and around treacherous heights and terrain, the legendary mountain range never lost its allure. From the pioneering cogwheel trains of the Industrial Revolution-turned tourist railways to electric trains of the 21st century, travelers still come to romance the Alps. Count me in. And the lovely selfie stick-toting Mexican woman I met in the wood-carving village of Brienz in central Switzerland as we waited for the next departure of the Brienz Rothorn steam train, one of Europe’s most nostalgic steam train journeys, that climbs to the top of Brienzer Mountain 7,713 feet above sea level. But when we learned that an avalanche watch at the top would shorten our ride to “Mittelstation,” just above the half-way point, our disappointment lasted…about a minute. Not even rain dampened the excitement of adults and kids biting at the bit as the whistle blew and steam spewed from the locomotive. We missed panoramic views from the top, but the scenery going up was straight from a picture book. See-through dome-shaped tops protected us from the rain and offered unobstructed views of the forest, Lake Brienz, and flower-decked 18th century wooden chalets, its occupants waving as we rolled through the woods. At mid-station, some guests dispersed to the tranquil meadows taking photos and videos of grazing cows and dreamy clouds rolling over Lake Brienz. Others hiked to the restaurant for lunch. I opted for the next return to the village to visit the renowned Swiss Woodcarving Museum – also the only woodcarving school in Switzerland. My train travel back in time didn’t stop in Brienz. By way of the regular train and the famous yellow postal bus that delivers mail, residents and tourists to remote locations, I took a rare mountainous journey to Oberwald, a small village in canton Valais -- 4,518 feet above sea level -- where I would board the famous Furka Steam Rail that first operated in 1925 as an important east-west axis through the Furka Pass connecting to the village of Realp in canton Uri. At 7,087 feet above sea level, it is one of the highest passes in the Alps. In 1981 this gloriously scenic, but operationally expensive line closed, and the tracks faced dismantling. But an international group of passionate volunteers succeeded at preserving the historic route by reviving the line and repatriating the steam locomotives from Vietnam where they had been exported. In 1992, the shiny blue Furka steam train breathed life back onto the abandoned narrow-gauge tracks complete with staff dressed in crisp period uniforms and original carriages meticulously restored – welcoming the curious to enjoy a taste of 1920s rail travel. Waving to hikers through open windows was as nostalgic as it gets, not to mention the adrenaline rush we felt as two locos pushed and pulled four carriages through the steep mountain valley passing the road made famous by the car chase scene in James Bond’s “Goldfinger,” and remnants of the great Rhone Glacier, the source of the Rhone River. Back to the future -- in the middle of nowhere – we rolled to a stop at a pop-up café where steaming hot coffee and “zopf,” a delightful braided bread, made for a timely refreshment break. Roving Switzerland by rail came full circle at the Swiss Museum of Transport in Lucerne that opened in 1959. Here, I got the fun eye-opening low-down on Switzerland’s rail history and its impact on European commerce, including the fantastic Gotthard Railway Model, a mesmerizing small-scale replica of the historic St. Gotthard Pass (6,909 feet above sea level) with miniature trains choo-chooing through this all-important north-south axis that connected northern and southern Switzerland. I couldn’t leave without one more ride on the rails – this time, the Gotthard Panorama Express, a vintage paddle steamer and modern train excursion in one package. This extraordinary five-hour experience started with a romantic three-hour lunch boat cruise on picturesque Lake Lucerne in German-speaking central Switzerland, then from the village of Fluelen, a swift-moving two-hour train journey south to Lugano in Ticino, the Italian-speaking Mediterranean canton bordering Italy. From the comfort of cushy seats in First Class panoramic viewing cars with a friendly and informative attendant (and refreshments on offer), we rolled through quintessential Swiss landscapes of the Reuss Valley and the land of William Tell, Switzerland’s legendary marksman and national hero. Near the village of Wassen, Ingrid Amado, our attendant, tipped us off about our approaching entry into the mountain’s famous loop tunnels that spiral up to gain altitude. “If you miss capturing a photo of the church,” she said, “…don’t worry, you’ll have two more chances!” By the time we reached the Gotthard Tunnel (opened in 1882), I felt privileged traveling the first rail line to cross the massif that had before separated Switzerland’s north and south. On the other side, swaying palm trees seemed so out of context. An ecstatic passenger said it all. “It’s another world here!” This is the magic of the Swiss Alps. WHEN YOU GO: Brienzer Rothorn Railway: www.mystsnet.com/brienzerrothorn Furka Steam Railway: www.mystsnet.com/furka Gotthard Panorama Express: www.myswissalps.com (search “Gotthard Panorama Express”) My Accommodations: Oberwald, Valais: Hotel Ahorni; www.ahorni.ch Lucerne, Lucerne: Hotel Anker; http://www.hotel-restaurant-anker.ch Lugano, Ticino: Hotel de la Paix; www.delapaix.ch As published: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/04/18/a-mesmerizing-rail-journey-in-the-swiss-alps PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (12 images) Gallery 2 (8 images)

My professor friend had just returned from visiting the Greek islands but didn’t have enough time to see Delphi as she had hoped. I was departing the next day for mainland Greece -- the Corinthian Gulf, the Peloponnese Peninsula, and central Greece -- and made it to Delphi. I thought of Rita as I stood amongst the ruins on Mount Parnassus where ancient Greeks trekked to seek sacred counsel of the Oracle, a “Wow-I-can’t-believe-I’m-here” moment. This journey through a magical region of roads less traveled had become my own Greek odyssey. Northwest of Athens, the gulf, also known as the Corinthian Riviera, is dotted with a string of resort towns within easy driving distance of one another. My small tour group discovered Loutraki, Corinth, Xylokastro, and Aigio on the Peloponnese coast; and Dorida, Arachova, and Thiva across the gulf in central Greece. I embraced the slower pace of this sophisticated region where Athenians escape the capital for the weekend and where I got a peek into the rhythm of authentic Greek life. Here, churches and monasteries surrounded by sandy beaches, forests, vineyards, olive groves, and farmland have been the landscape since antiquity and where fishing, winemaking, agriculture, olive oil and cheese making still thrive. Healthy farm-to-table and sea-to-table meals are not trendy here, but a way of living. We were the beneficiaries of this wealth of natural resources as we broke bread over gastronomic and gregarious family-style meals made with lots of love and the reason why the food culture of the Greeks is a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. These common characteristics are what tie the vast gulf region together. Just as vast was the richness of each town as we connected with warm and friendly communities and their local culture. An hour drive west from Athens, the spa town of Loutraki was our gateway to the gulf, where the mainland and the Peloponnese meet. This visit had set the bar high, from an overnight at the Club Hotel Casino designed like an ocean liner, tastings at Kalielaion Olive Oil Press and Loukami candy maker, lunch at a lakeshore fish tavern as octopus tentacles dangled overhead, a soak with locals at Loutraki Thermal Spa, and a seaside dinner at the upscale Paladar restaurant. Ancient Corinth is home to the famous ruins of the Acrocorinth, the Temple of Apollo, and the Corinth Canal. During a tour with business-minded nuns at the secluded Monastery of the Holy Cross (who run a high-tech dairy farm in the mountains), they surprised us, on their day of fasting, with an exquisite buffet and performed for us a mesmerizing Byzantine chant. Back on the coast for dinner, we burned off calories with Greek dancing between courses (and lots of Greek wine) -- with the town mayor and his family. Xylokastro is where the beach and pine forests meet. In a single day, we strolled the marina and restaurant-lined quay, visited the awe-inspiring Church of Agios Vlasios, spontaneously erected a two-table roadside “pop-up café” in the ski center of Ziria (yes, there’s skiing in Greece), took cover from the rain under olive trees in Melissi then indulged in tastings of award-winning Ladolea olive oil and local wines at Hotel Lido on the beach. In Aigio, we drove deep into romantic wine country to the mountain winery of RIRA and met its two female winemakers, visited a factory at the Agricultural Cooperative Union where tiny Corinthian currants bursting with flavor -- a nutritious food since ancient times -- are packaged for international distribution. We visited the Archeological Museum housed in the historic marketplace, then salivated as our lunch of fresh-caught fish and shrimp was cooked table side. By evening we clinked glasses with the winemaker at mountain-top Tetramythos Winery, and back down at the beach al fresco under the stars, chowed down on scrumptious gyro sandwiches, Greece’s original street food. We reached Dorida on the other side of the gulf by way of a short ferry crossing with close-up views of the Rio-Antirio Bridge, the world’s longest suspension bridge that opened in 2004. A huge municipality, Dorida’s extraordinary offerings include remarkable collections at the folkloric and nautical history museums, the Monastery of Trikorfo, Trizonia (the only inhabited island in the gulf), the noble seaport village of Galaxidi, Mellin apiary where fir and thyme honey are produced, the mountain village of Loidoriki, and a modern cattle farm (sheep and goats, too) operated by two young brothers who invited us to enjoy freshly-made yogurt, cheese and breads. From Dorida we climbed in elevation to cosmopolitan Arachova, a year-round mountain resort built on dramatic cliffs and one of the most picturesque ski towns I have seen. Famous for its proximity to Delphi, it is Greece’s top winter destination. Prides of the town are the four-faced clock tower and its protected Formaella cheese made and sold only in Arachova. Our lunch (rather, feast) at Taverna Kaplanis, Arachova’s oldest and most authentic tavern, fortified us for a mushroom-hunting trek in Mount Parnassus National Forest and a visit to the ancient port village of Antikyra. Back down at sea level the final leg of our grand tour took us to Thiva where we met more local producers and their lovely families – bakers, pasta makers, and cheese makers. And at Terra Thiva winery in the city we sat for an elegant evening of wine tasting led by winemaker Yiannis Flevianos who studied viticulture and enology at the prestigious University of California, Davis. Once the powerful city-state rival of Athens, Thiva is where legends inspired classical literature -- Hercules (“the strongest of all mortals”), Dionysos (god of wine), and Oedipus (he answered the riddle of the Sphinx and became the mythical king of Thebes). At the magnificent Archeological Museum of Thebes that opened to much anticipation last summer, their stories came to life. And unexpectedly while walking the museum’s shiny marble floors, my mouth dropped in awe when a glass case displaying thousand-year-old relics automatically lifted open and our guide invited us to hold the precious objects. It wasn’t long before the museum’s treasure trove of artefacts discovered around Thebes whisked my imagination to the magical world of Greek gods and goddesses, rituals and lore. Published version: http://www.travelife.ca/DESTINATIONS/Europe2/tabid/533/ArticleID/457/Bridging-the-Gulf-in-Greece.aspx JUST THE FACTS: For complete information about attractions and lodging around the Corinthian Gulf, see www.visitgreece.gr My accommodations: LOUTRAKI: Club Hotel Casino; www.clubhotelloutraki.gr CORINTH: Hotel Ephira; www.ephirahotel.gr XYLOKASTRO: Hotel Skyon Coast; www.sikyoncoast.com AIGIO: Harmony Hotel Apartments; www.harmony-apartments.com DORIDA: Elia Hotel (Erateini), www.eliasuites.gr; Hotel Kallipollis (Loidoriki), www.hotelkallipolis.gr ARACHOVA: Hotel Skamnos; www.skamnos.com THIVA: Dionysion Melathron; www.dionysionthiva.gr PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (11 images) Gallery 2 (9 images)

There is only one Idyllwild in the world, according to Google and during a weekend visit with friends at their home in this bucolic mountain town my husband and I rediscovered the dramatic San Jacinto Mountains, SoCal’s second highest mountain range 10,834 feet above sea level. Strawberry Valley, as Idyllwild was first known, was already attracting tourists in the late 1880s. With a name like that, who wouldn’t be lured to such a place? By the early 1900s it was advertised as the “Alps of Southern California.” Not a ski resort and still quietly famous for its pristine beauty, there is more to Idyllwild than meets the eye. About an hour’s drive from Palm Springs and two hours from Los Angeles and San Diego, Idyllwild’s landscape -- lush canopies of ancient ponderosa pines, Black Oaks, and sweet-smelling cedars; a gentle flowing stream; and legendary Tahquitz Peak towering above at 8,846 feet is renowned among artists and mountain climbers. It is also known as a “sky island” because the forested mountain top is surrounded by a sea of desert below creating a unique bioregion, one of the few that exists in the world. With a population of just over 3,800 inhabitants there are no traffic lights, fast food, or chain stores, which lends to its unspoiled appeal drawing not just nature lovers, but city slickers like me in search of an easy getaway to disconnect from a 24/7 plugged-in world. But modern tourists were not the first to discover Idyllwild. Millennia before, the Cahuilla Indians escaped unbearably hot summers in the lowland desert and migrated uphill to this alpine paradise where they also gathered winter provisions hunting small game and foraging acorns. Bedrock mortars that were used for grinding the acorns still remain in the area -- other-worldly-looking flat rocks with symmetrical holes – remnants of the Cahuilla existence. In the middle of the woods, our guest room window framed mystical Tahquitz Peak (pronounced TAUK-wich) named after the legendary Cahuilla chieftain. Also known as Lily Rock, the massive granite formation was the birthplace of technical rock climbing in America that began in the 1930s and by 1950 the Yosemite Decimal System -- the international standard that grades the difficulty of climbing routes – was created. It is here that Yvon Chouinard (of Patagonia clothing fame, environmentalist, and equipment manufacturer) along with fellow godfathers of American rock climbing, Royal Robbins and Tom Frost, pioneered “clean climbing” an ethos respecting the fragility of our wilderness encouraging light use of equipment on the mountain to minimize rock damage and human impact. Idyllwild is also a re-supply town on the famous Pacific Crest Trail, the 2,659-mile long hiking route through national parks stretching from the U.S.-Mexico border to the U.S.-Canada border. Commonly known as the PCT, it enjoyed the Hollywood spotlight as the setting for “Wild,” the 2014 movie based on Cheryl Strayed’s book of the same name. Reese Witherspoon snagged a best actress Oscar nomination for her portrayal of the author’s arduous and spiritual 1,000-mile solo journey on the PCT. The town warmly welcomes the approximate 1,000 hikers a year who come off the PCT after weeks or months eager to shower, do laundry, buy provisions or gear, catch a hearty meal – and share tales with locals about their wilderness treks. While at Devil’s Slide Trail, the most popular of Idyllwild’s dozen wilderness hikes (it leads to the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway), we met such a PTC’er who had just hiked 800 miles. “How far is Idyllwild from here?” the friendly lean 20-something man from Maryland asked. It’s a long walk we responded, then invited him to load his backpack into the Jeep and together we drove into town. Idyllwild is the largest in a trio of unincorporated communities in Riverside County that includes Pine Cove and Fern Valley. You won’t find a city council or chamber of commerce here, but there is an unofficial (albeit four-legged) official – Mayor Max, a regal Golden Retriever, the town’s ambassador and most popular figure. Friendly and accessible, he sports a tie, welcomes photo ops, and can be spotted riding around town in the back of a shiny white pick-up truck. With a mayor like Max, there’s a lot to love about this unstuffy and creative town that has evolved into a thriving arts and culture community and ranks among the 100 Best Small Art Towns in America. Our weekend was also a “pilgrimage” to Idyllwild’s annual Art Walk and Wine Tasting. Organized by the Art Alliance of Idyllwild, this September will be the event’s 19th anniversary as the village transforms into an open-air art gallery exhibiting extraordinary works by local artists – paintings, sculptures, jewelry, ceramics, photography, and more. “My son and I look forward to this event every year!” a Palm Springs resident enthusiastically shared as we crossed the street to queue up for our first wine sampling. With wine glasses in hand, we visited cafes, the Idyllwild Historical Society, shops and art galleries visually feasting on original art pieces and meeting their creators while sampling a showcase of impressive vintages produced by wineries in the nearby Temecula and San Diego. While perusing art exhibits on the grounds of the Historical Society, I gave up my place in the wine tasting line and wandered through the back door of a small 1930s wood cabin a few feet away. Once the summer home of a family for three generations, it was purchased by the organization in 2001 and given new life as a permanent museum (admission is free). Oblivious to the crowd outside, wall-to-wall artifacts; historical documents; photographs; and logging, mining and mountain climbing histories took me back to a thriving Strawberry Valley. Who knew this high country was the center of production of gorgeous Arts and Crafts-era log furniture also on display? And behind the rustic museum a 21st century climate-controlled archive and research center was built in 2009 to house 7,500 more historical items, an achievement that garnered awards from the Society of California Archivists and the California Council for the Promotion of History becoming the first local independent historical society in the state to receive such honors. Art is a year-round way of life here from concerts, stage productions, and regular art fairs in the park to the internationally renowned Idyllwild Arts Academy where young artists hone their talents at the residential college preparatory high school. And for artists of all ages and skill levels, the Idyllwild Summer Arts Program awakens the creative juices with high quality instruction. Art in all its forms can be enjoyed at just about every turn around town from art galleries to unexpected art hot spots like Higher Grounds Gallery at Idyllwild Coffee Roasters, Sky Island Natural Foods Market, the array of wonderfully eclectic dining spots -- and now the exciting Middle Ridge Winery and Gallery – an extraordinary pairing of tasting room and art gallery. And “Idyllwild Deer Sightings” unveiled in 2015 is a permanent public exhibition of the Art Alliance of Idyllwild -- 22 life-size aluminum deer depicting all things Idyllwild painted by local artists and placed at various locations around town. Outside La Casita Mexican Restaurant, I spotted “Rocky,” a white deer painted with a fantastic scene of rock climbers and met Rocky’s creator Neil Jenkins. Jenkins spoke passionately about how much he and his wife Donna (both are artists and mountaineers) love living in Idyllwild. “Rocky,” said Jenkins, “…expresses the essence and beauty of this incredible place.” IF YOU GO: For information on lodging and other activities in Idyllwild, visit www.idyllwild.com Published version: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/07/16/idyllwild-california-mountain-grandeur-and-arts-mecca PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (11 images) Gallery 2 (6 images)

It was a Zen moment as I slurped the hot clear broth, our first course at Prata Man, a dive of a Singaporean restaurant just minutes from Vancouver International Airport in the Canadian island city of Richmond, British Columbia. There was nothing flashy about this hole in the wall. But inside, every table was taken and just about everyone was savoring the flavors of traditional Hainanese Chicken – our mission for lunch. It would be my first time eating the wildly juicy poached chicken served cold with ginger and green onions along with the quintessential hot rice cooked in the chicken’s silky oil -- the Holy Grail of the meal and the national dish of Singapore. Welcome to gastronomic Richmond also known as the Asian food capital of North America. Devout gourmands say that the most tsen, or proper, Chinese cooking outside of China is found here. Almost three quarters of the city’s 214,000 residents hail from Asia – mainly China, Hong Kong, and Taiwan, including the finest cooks who brought with them glorious recipes from the homeland. What also came from the old country was the vibrant eat-out culture that energizes the city. Now I understand why Seattleites who don’t want to cook at home drive north over the border to eat in Richmond. That’s also why so many of the more than 200 Asian restaurants along three-block long Alexandra Road – popularly known as “Food Street” – were full, from eateries with only 12 seats to Hong Kong-style cafes and dinner restaurants. “It’s common in the Asian culture to eat out,” said Joyce Chiang of Tourism Richmond. “Apartments are the size of a shoebox and kitchens aren’t set up to make gourmet meals.” And because people work late hours, she added, it’s more time-efficient and cost-effective to grab a meal at a local stall. The chance to savor meals as fresh and healthy as home-cooked for as little as $5? I could get used to this. Richmond has over 800 restaurants to please all palates. But on this two-day getaway my focus was the Golden Village -- home to an extraordinary concentration of cooking from around Asia -- Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, Japan, Korea, and all the regions of China. Along with fashionable Asian shopping malls and famous night markets, a visit here is like going to Asia without leaving North America. It was also a learning vacation. Like at R&H food stand at Lansdowne Mall where I followed a demonstration on the proper way to eat xiao long bao – or soup dumpling. To avoid soup dripping unflatteringly down my chin, I picked up the doughy pouch by its twisted knot, placed it gently onto the spoon, lifted the spoon to my mouth, bit into the side of the dumpling and at once slurped the luxurious broth. I then devoured the dumpling in its entirety, including the divine pork meatball inside. Simply heaven. At 20-seat HK BBQ Master (accessed through a parking garage below a supermarket) regulars happily line up for its award-winning and most authentic Chinese-style barbecue this side of the Pacific. Char siu or roast pig (only the succulent belly is served here) is the best around. And if you don’t fancy pork or gorgeous crispy crackling (skin), sinking your teeth into the soy duck or soy chicken is equally divine. At Xi An Cuisine inside the Richmond Public Market, I not only tasted the most beautiful hand-pulled noodle soup I will ever remember, but just before, I watched in awe as Chef Duan made the noodles first. The process was a blur as he rapidly pulled and stretched a plump doughy roll into a (very) long and elegant strand right before our eyes. Then, with a quiet smile, he dashed off to cook up our fresh order. What is a Hong Kong-style café or cha chaan teng (tea restaurant)? This phenomenon of affordable east-meets-west menu choices was born in Hong Kong after World War II to accommodate its increasing British population. In the mid-1980s Hong Kong-style cafes emerged in Richmond and have become an institution. At Happy Date Restaurant and Bakery, I mused at the two-sided menus that listed western fare like oatmeal, French toast, omelets, bacon and hash browns on one side. On the reverse, Hong Kong standards teased my curious taste buds -- congee, (a fortifying rice porridge with origins dating back to the rule of Emperor Huang Di), Chinese donuts, rice rolls, and noodle soup. Eating clay pot rice at James Snacks food stand at Empire Centre Food Court was another of my many “firsts” on this trip. A prized meal, its slow-cooking method (rice is cooked in a personal-size clay pot first, then topped with meat, vegetables and soya sauce) is what gives this tasty dish its deliciously charred flavors. Sub sandwiches in Chinatown? The baguette, or bahn mi, became standard fare when Vietnam was a French colony from the mid-1880s to 1954 and at Lai Taste Vietnamese stall at Parker Place Mall, I got a taste of the popular foot-long holdover. Made with rice and wheat flour, the bread is airy and light. Pork and deep-fried fish sandwiches are a local favorite so I sampled the latter that came layered with fresh sprigs of aromatic cilantro. By day I roamed the holes in the wall around the Golden Village. But by night the culinary stage lit up with 10-course feasts prepared by co-owner and chef David Li of Vivacity (a banquet-style restaurant), and owner and chef Yiutong Leung of intimate Hoi Tong (about seven tables and reminiscent of private Hong Kong kitchens). From dishes as divine as braised whole abalone at Vivacity and double lobster with tossed vermicelli at Hoi Tong, each course -- presented one at a time -- was nothing short of exquisite. And in the spirit of yin and yang, I found balance with the savory and the sweet. This glorious progressive feast fed my weakness for Asian pastries, which are lighter and less sugary than their Western counterparts. Two Hong Kong “originals” knocked my socks off. The bubble waffle aka egg waffle or gai daan jai (means “little chicken egg”), surfaced on the streets of Hong Kong during the 1950s and became a favorite street snack. Made with eggs, sugar, flour and evaporated milk, it’s best eaten hot off the iron – with or without decadent toppings such as ice cream, fresh fruit, or whipped cream. At BBT Shop (a few steps from HK BBQ Master), I fell for the bubbly pastry’s crispy golden plainness that I could pull apart with my fingers. In the middle of the week locals were queuing up outside Hong Kong-style Li Do Restaurant for pineapple bun, its specialty. Called bo lo bao in Cantonese, it is Hong Kong’s croissant that was officially declared an “intangible cultural heritage.” The dome-shaped buns are eaten at breakfast or with afternoon tea and are sold as fast as they come out of the oven. It got its name because the caramelized top of the bun resembles the outside of a pineapple (there’s no pineapple in it). Our order came with thick slabs of butter the size of a big sticky note. You only live once, I muttered, so I stuffed the butter into the halved bun and luxuriated in utter bliss. WHEN YOU GO: For more information about dining, lodging, and attractions in Richmond and the Golden Village, visit www.tourismrichmond.com WHERE I STAYED: Sandman Signature Vancouver Airport Hotel; www.sandmansignature.ca Published version: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/12/16/enlightenment-in-the-asian-food-capital-of-richmond-british-columbia PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (9 images) Gallery 2 (8 images)

Commit to your turns…Pedal…Smooth and round…Remember, we’re the boss of our skis -- they’re not the boss of us! The drills became my mantra as I skied follow-the-leader style behind Britta Nesbit, one of Deer Valley Resort’s top-flight instructors in its popular Women’s Ski Clinic who has been teaching skiing at Deer Valley in Park City, Utah, over 20 years. Soon, I was negotiating smoother turns with less hesitation and a lot more confidence. Conditions on the mountain can change at any time, explained Nesbit. “But if you have confidence in your turns, you can handle most anything.” Since 1993, female instructors in the three-day Women’s Ski Clinic -- conducted twice each winter -- have helped women improve their downhill techniques in a friendly and supportive environment. Whether you’re keen on skiing the trees or the moguls, if your turns need fine tuning, or if you just want to ski with similarly skilled sisters, you’ll finish the long weekend a better skier than when you arrived. I had missed both clinics last season, so I booked a private three-hour lesson to get a sneak peek into how such a course could boost my intermediate skills. I was hooked. If I improved this much in three hours, imagine what three days could do. Participants in the clinics – or “guests” as visitors to Deer Valley are called -- should be at least high-beginner or intermediate level, said Nesbit. Groups of four to six ensure personal attention and while classes are intense, it’s all about having fun while learning. And fun I had working on my turns. “Lean forward,” Nesbit called out. “…Don’t sit in the back seat of the car!” With knees slightly bent and my belly button hovering above the tips of my boots, I pedaled like riding a bicycle, not herky-jerky. Keeping both skis on the ground I put pressure on the outer ski to start my turn around the “top of the sun.” Then I put pressure on the opposite ski to round the sun again aiming for a rhythmic traverse down the mountain. “How are your legs feeling?” Nesbit asked me before we dived down another run. Never gave them thought, I had realized. Usually on the first day of skiing, my thigh muscles “burn.” The pedaling technique was working, she commended. “You’re staying centered, leaning forward, and not putting undue pressure on your upper muscles.” I practically jumped for joy. I got kudos, too, for maintaining a straight forward-facing posture and keeping my poles positioned in front of me. We hockey-stopped in front of a tiny hut -- the Video Shack. Here, groups analyze videos that instructors take of each charge as she skies. “Guests learn so much more,” said Nesbit, “… when they can see their ski form.” With the mountain her classroom (Deer Valley has 2,026 skiable acres), Nesbit rotates guests so that each can ski directly behind her to hear instruction and to follow good technique. Three hours passed too quickly, but the breakthroughs I’d made are imbedded in my ski legs forever. But had I been in the full clinic, I’d be celebrating, with the group, our well-earned stripes at the wrap-up finale. Learning about not only the Women’s Ski Clinic, but also the extraordinary story of this mountain, sealed the deal for me. Who knew Deer Valley was the brainchild of New Orleans-raised hotelier-television pioneer-real estate developer-and renaissance man Edgar Stern Jr. back in 1981? Stern had the out-of-the-box idea to design a mountain resort that would offer skiers the amenities of a first-class hotel with luxury lodging and fine dining. Outstanding customer service would be its hallmark -- Visitors are “guests.” Personnel are attentive and friendly. Ski valet, day and overnight ski storage, and shuttle service are complimentary. And like the grand hotels of yore, such hospitality (many employees have worked here more than 20 years) brings generations of families back to Deer Valley year after year. Crowded lift lines and runs are non-existent at Deer Valley, one of the last three remaining ski-only mountains in the United States. That’s because lift tickets sales are limited to only 7,500 a day. Indeed, an ideal “classroom.” Skiers have big appetites and hearty gastronomy at the end of the day is a necessity – and the other half of ski season’s highlights. Synonymous with Deer Valley is Seafood Buffet – an institution here that has operated almost as long as the resort has existed. Open only in winter and much sexier than it sounds, Seafood Buffet is the extraordinary transformation of the main lodge’s day-time cafeteria into a fine dining experience by night. My husband and I entered the rustic dining room where uniformed staff graciously welcomed us for the glorious feast ahead. Like a changing movie set, the lighting had dimmed, candle-lit tables were set, fireplaces crackled, and the morning coffee station became a fully-stocked cocktail bar with award-winning bartender Bonnie Ulmer at the helm. The room’s centerpiece was the four-sided station showcasing succulent Opilio and King crab legs, White Shrimp, housesmoked Verlasso salmon, pickled herring, artisanal cheeses, and more. My taste buds went wild as I roamed the other stations -- a cornucopia of the highest quality sustainably-sourced offerings, including vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free fare – from Niman Ranch St. Louis pork ribs and Sterling Silver roast prime rib to Littleneck clams, PEI mussels and the Poke Bar’s Big Eye Hawaiian Tuna flown in daily from Honolulu. “Shellfish, salmon, prime rib, pork ribs and poke are guest favorites – and the standards at Seafood Buffet,” said Chef Ryan Estel, the menu’s passionate, out-of-the-box creator. The rest of the exciting dishes is a nightly surprise because Chef Ryan never makes the same dish twice. On my next visit to Deer Valley, I will hit the slopes by way of the Women’s Ski Clinic where I will challenge myself to be the best intermediate skier I can be. And when the chairlifts close, I’ll be famished. But I won’t wander far from the main lodge. I’ll store my skis downstairs, powder my nose -- and switch my tight ski pants for my favorite spandex jeans. WHEN YOU GO: For more information about Deer Valley’s Women’s Ski Clinic, Seafood Buffet, lodging and other activities, visit www.deervalley.com Published version: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/10/18/womens-ski-clinic-at-deer-valley-works-magic PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (7 images) Gallery 2 (3 images)

It felt like the top of the world while I stood at the foot of Mt. Parnassus in Delphi 2,000 feet above sea level in the mountains of central Greece. According to myths of the ancient Greeks -- when gods and goddesses ruled – mortals, from military leaders to farmers, trekked the distance to seek the advice of the Oracle. “This is the Holy Path,” our guide told us, as my small group walked the ascending dirt trail of what is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. “…It leads to Apollo’s temple.” I was awestruck by the terraced plateau surrounded by sheer peaks hovering above and a steep verdant valley below. Myth also had it that Apollo, god of the sun, light, music, and truth had come to Delphi to slay the serpent Python after which Apollo “became the Master” and was granted the gift of prophecy. It was through Pythia, the Delphic Oracle, that he delivered predictions, albeit in an unintelligible tongue. Apollo is also said to be the creator of the Pythian Games in 582 BC -- the precursor to the Olympic Games. Rather than sports, though, music, dance, and poetry were the focus. It was later that gymnastics and chariot racing were added. Continuing along the holy path we passed the ruins of temples and monuments that were the offerings of city-states made to the Oracle when predictions had favorable results. The size of the offering indicated status and power. Like the 37 statues brought from Sparta when by the end of the 5th century BC it won the long Peloponnesian War against Athens. The bases on which statues once stood were also among the remains. The statuary unearthed during excavations at Delphi and the surrounding area (between 1892 and 1903) along with many other antiquities can be seen at the adjacent Archeological Museum of Delphi founded in 1903. It is one of Greece’s most important museums and was last renovated in 2000. I was humbled by the “colossal size” of the Sphinx, an offering by Naxos, the largest and richest of the Cyclades islands during the Archaic period. With the face of a woman, the body of a lion, and wings of a bird, the imposing Sphinx was carved from a giant block of Naxian marble. It’s hard to imagine that it sat perched atop a column over 40 feet high! The Charioteer is another masterpiece at the museum (I had to tip-toe to see its eyelashes). The bronze life-sized statue was discovered in 1896 fully intact except for a missing forearm. The Charioteer had escaped destruction or theft thanks to an earthquake in 373 BC that buried it until its discovery. A charioteer was always a male youth of nobility. This one was dressed in an ankle-length tunic designed with vertical pleats representing the flutes of a column. With great interest about undiscovered Delphi, archaeologists and historians during the late 19th century trekked also to the ancient sanctuary chomping at the bit to learn more. Up the hill at 3,200 feet above sea level, the mountain village of Arachova became the home base for the researchers. Soon, Arachova achieved fame as the passage to Delphi. From the winding roadside, the sight of the ancient village-turned-chic-but-unpretentious year-round getaway, was magical to say the least with stone buildings and red-tiled roofs terraced on the mountainside. The 18th century Clock Tower is the centerpiece of the town. We climbed to the top and took in spectacular views of Arachova and the valley below. Today, cosmopolitan Arachova (only two hours’ drive from Athens) is Greece’s highest-altitude and hottest ski destination. It’s a regular holiday spot for Athenians and the rich and famous who come here for healthy mountain air, alpine scenery, gastronomy and fun nightlife – no wonder this utterly charming village of fewer than 3,000 inhabitants is nicknamed the “Mykonos of Winter.” But Arachova’s finest quality is its authenticity that I witnessed in its people and its traditions. Arachova’s famous textile and craft industry is kept alive at the Ethnographic Museum and Workshops of Traditional Arts, a joint project between Greece and the European Union initiated in 2009 where workshops, restoration, and scientific seminars are conducted. Inside the Neoclassical building, we got a crash course on the town’s rich history – the 1826 Battle of Arachova when it defeated the Ottomans, early equipment used to make carpets and tapestries – and a sheepherder’s naturally waterproof coat made from goat. People also come to Arachova to savor or stock up on Formaella cheese – made only in Arachova and is a protected designation of origin. We visited the small factory/store run by the Christos family who shared how the hard mild-tasting cheese is made -- from sheep and goat milk -- and offered lovely tastings. Our tour of the town was getting tastier by the hour when our next stop was a candy factory owned and operated by Thomas and Effie Papasthathis. They welcomed us with the warmest smiles as chocolate melted in a nearby vat, then sliced a fresh batch of the chocolate mixed with walnuts, almonds and gorgeous pistachios – that had been “resting” on a table teasing our taste buds – and offered them as divine tastings. I completely embraced our lunch at Taverna Kaplanis where farm-to-table dining reached a glorious level. The husband, a winegrower, also raises the sheep and goats that his wife, Chef Stella, transforms into exquisite dishes. Our feast: Salad (from their own garden) of finely chopped cabbage, lettuce, carrots, green onions and dill tossed in vinegar; spinach pie; grilled Formaella cheese with lemon; bean soup; pork and lamb sausage; lamb chops; lamb sweetbreads, heart, and liver wrapped with intestines (a delicious delicacy); and rooster fettuccini. The finale was Moustalevria, a luxurious pie/tart-like dessert, prepared only in the fall, made from the sweet of musk. With a (really) full stomach and ready for an invigorating walk I was thrilled when Kaloussa, the owner of my lodging (Skamnos boutique mountain hotel), offered a mushroom-hunting excursion in nearby Mount Parnassus National Park. Along with other adventure-seekers in my group, we tramped through the dense fir forest in search of mushrooms – there are 280 different species here. We had a few fungus sightings including large flat odd-shaped ones and the tiniest twice the size of a Starbucks mint. Having exceeded our meat quota for the day, we drove 30 minutes down to sea level for a fabulous seafood dinner at Valaouras Fish Restaurant in Antikyra, a lovely port town on the northern Corinthian Coast with a population of barely 1,500. On the patio in view of fishing boats and the lighthouse, we finished off the day with a “lighter” spread of beautiful fish soup, grilled octopus, calamari, clams, snapper, and crispy Atherina, tiny fish that look like small anchovies. It’s a paradise in Arachova and Delphi – the top of the world in my book. But if you were to ask Zeus, the king of all gods, this is the center of the earth. He came to this conclusion when he searched for the answer that came to light after the two eagles he released in opposite directions flew until they crossed paths here. Let’s just call it the best of both worlds. IF YOU GO: For complete information about visiting Arachova and Delphi, visit www.visitgreece.gr Ethnological Museum of Arachova: www.arachovamuseum.gr Taverna Kaplanis: www.kaplanis-taverna.gr My accommodation: Boutique Hotel SKAMNOS: www.skamnos.com Published version: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/05/17/arachova-and-delphi-put-each-other-on-the-map PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (12 images) Gallery 2 (10 images)

Zurich, Switzerland, is the “Gateway to Europe,” pulsating as one of the world’s busiest rail stations and the densest transportation network in the heart of the continent. It’s also the country’s financial capital, it’s the capital of German-speaking canton Zurich and it’s Switzerland’s capital of the world’s favorite feel good food. Each day, 350,000 to 500,000 locals and international travelers pass through Zurich HB, the main train station in the city center. Here, trains, buses, and boats keep people moving to their final destinations around Europe or within Switzerland comfortably, frequently, and always on time. A frequent traveler to Switzerland, I embrace the efficiency here that gets me from Zurich HB to Zurich Airport’s train station in 12 stress-free minutes. The ease in getting in and out of Zurich makes for an irresistible stopover -- be it a few hours or a few days -- to take in this compact walkable metropolis that’s one of Europe’s hippest destinations and among the world’s most livable cities. To start, inside Zurich HB is Shopville, a high-end shopping mall cleverly sandwiched between platform levels. Complete with clothing boutiques, restaurants, supermarkets, beauty services and drugstores, it’s open late every day of the year. On this two-day stay, I exit the station, cross the short bridge towards my hotel in the romantic Aldstadt, or Old Town, then stop mid-way to catch a glimpse of iconic St. Andrews Church and St. Peters Church’s famous clock tower (the largest clock face in Europe). And I grin when I see two-story Starbucks on the edge of Old Town. Zurich’s city center is surrounded by water, hence, its other nickname, the Water City. The labyrinthine rail yard on the “mainland” connects with the train station’s huge airy hall that straddles the River Sihl. On the other side of the small island-like land mass flows the River Limmat. At the southern tip is massive Lake Zurich. Come summertime, the city looks more like the Mediterranean. “Badis,” Zurich’s version of Italian lidos, are scattered along the river and around the lake juxtaposing bikinis with power suits and bathhouses with office buildings. When the sun sets, badis transform into night clubs. You know it’s a lifestyle here when office workers spend their lunch hours taking a swim in the river. Local guide Annamaria Pal Muller helps make the most of my brief stay. On a walking tour, she updates me on the city’s coolest quarter and reacquaints me with Zurich’s quintessential landmarks like the Opera House; the world-renowned Kunsthaus museum of art; the Swiss National Museum next to the train station; the Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s world-famous shopping avenue; the cobbled streets and romantic Medieval alleyways of Old Town – and a stroll around the University of Zurich, one of Europe’s most important research institutes. We head north of the station to explore Zurich West, the exciting rebirth of the former industrial quarter that’s now a culinary mecca, economic hub and the center of Zurich’s nightlife. Here, Im Viadukt (German for “in the viaduct”), is the ingenious reuse of the 19th century 292-foot high railway bridge. Trendy restaurants and independent shops selling locally designed clothing, accessories and more are cleverly built into each of the stone viaduct’s 36 arches. Nearby, colorful Markthalle Im Viadukt is home to 20-plus local food vendors, take-out counters and a stylish restaurant offering bagels and coffee, groceries, unique foods, sushi, and Swiss products. Defining Zurich West’s skyline, Freitag Tower gives new meaning to repurposing shipping containers. Nineteen stacked metal containers create the 85-foot high “skyscraper” housing its flagship showroom of collectible waterproof messenger bags recycled from truck tarpaulins. Steps from Freitag’s boxy architecture, we wander into bohemian Frau Gerolds Garten, an outdoor garden-restaurant-bar and popular community gathering spot. My taste buds tingle when I peek through a window of the pop-up chalet-style yurt that’s erected each winter offering warm, gooey cheese fondue and raclette, favorite Swiss comfort meals. Back in Old Town, I meet Stephanie Greiner, impassioned founder of Xocotour Suisse, who leads me on a private one-of-a-kind chocolate tasting tour that’s decadently delicious, entertaining and educational. Hopscotching between the legendary confectionaries -- Sprungli, Honold, and Teuscher and artisan chocolateries Dieter Meier’s Oro de Cacao and Max Chocolatiers – Greiner shares the history of chocolate and “trains” my nose to recognize aromatic spices, citrus, hazelnut, passion fruit, even roses. Derived from the cacao bean, the fruit of the cacao tree, chocolate was first consumed as a bitter beverage for medicinal purposes by the Mayans somewhere around 600AD. It contains properties said to lower blood pressure and the amino acid tryptophan – that makes us feel so darned happy. So, I pay silent homage to the chocolate gods while “inhaling” Honold’s pralines and truffles, Sprungli’s signature Luxemberglis (mini macarons) and Teuscher’s Dom Perignon Truffles to Dieter Meier’s revolutionary cold extraction method that uses less sugar, and Max’s bite-size pieces made lovingly by hand and packed with flavor. The finale, a Connoisseur Chocolate Tasting at historic Teecafe Schwarzenbach, brings it all full circle. “High-quality chocolate is recognized by its smooth and shiny surface,” says Greiner as she unwraps more samples. “You should hear a snap when it breaks.” And don’t be so quick to chew and swallow. Let it melt in your mouth. Savor the rich flavors. “Good chocolate melts quickly,” Greiner warns. “But don’t worry. The rich tastes will linger…” IF YOU GO: Zurich Tourism: www.zuerich.com Stopover Switzerland: This new program of Switzerland Tourism allows Swiss Air passengers transferring via Zurich to stopover a few days without additional charge before arrival at their final destination. Search: Swiss Airlines Stopover Program Xocotour Suisse: www.xocotour.ch My overnight accommodation: Marktgasse Hotel, www.marktgassehotel.ch PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (10 images) Gallery 2 (9 images)

With just one night in Athens before embarking on a road trip around northern Greece, my challenge was what to do with such little time. Take a bus tour of the capital or explore my surroundings on foot? After all, the best way to learn about a place is by poking around, meeting the locals, and getting lost. Thank goodness for my burly taxi driver who showed me the lay of the land, even though he spoke little English and I spoke no Greek. He pointed out city sights close to where I would be staying – the Acropolis, the Parliament House, the National Gardens, and Syntagma Square as I people-watched, awed by the dizzying number of motorcycles competing for space in snarled traffic. Turning onto an obscure narrow street, we stopped briefly in front of a long alleyway with shops and cafes. “Close…to…hotel!” my cabbie smiled. My room was not yet ready – an opportune time to begin my self-tour of the neighborhood. Alongside smartly-dressed business people and tourists, I bee-lined in the direction of the cafes to fuel up with something to eat and strong Greek coffee (also called Turkish coffee, but when in Greece, it’s Greek). I was in Plaka, the city’s oldest district built on top of ancient Athens on the slopes of the Acropolis also known as the “Neighborhood of the Gods.” The rocky outcrop rising above the city is home to the Parthenon built in honor of Athena, goddess of reason, who beat Poseidon, the moody god of the sea, in a contest to become the patron deity of the city. Athena’s offering of the olive tree was victorious over Poseidon’s undrinkable salty spring water (you go, girl). I used to think there was only one acropolis. There are many throughout Greece, but only the one in Athens is called “The Acropolis,” the country’s most famous landmark. And what I had thought was just another alleyway lined with vendors was no ordinary shopping lane. It was Adrianou Street, the city’s oldest commercial road dating back to the Roman Emperor Hadrian. It’s been in continuous use ever since and according to archeological excavations, its layout follows that of the original ancient street. The marbled pedestrian street turned out to be a remarkable maze of shops, taverns and cafes. An unexpected slice of history, this shopper’s haven has everything from souvenirs and t-shirts to high-quality jewelry, clothing, art, and furnishings made by local artists and designers. I enjoyed more warm Greek hospitality as shop keepers spent unrushed time showing me their wares and wrapping fragile purchases with such care. Farther down Adrianou Street, I stood in the middle of an “intersection” having to choose between cafes as proprietors welcomed me to dine at their establishments. How could I say no to the charmer who motioned for my cell phone so that he could snap my photo? A glorious cup of coffee and a picture-perfect Greek salad -- the country’s quintessential rustic meal made with cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, olives, and heavenly Feta cheese sprinkled with oregano – was all that I needed to recharge. Before heading to the new Acropolis Museum (a 10-minute walk away), I offloaded my Athens keepsakes at the hotel, picked up a city map, and was back pounding the marbled pavement (marble is everywhere). Within minutes I was stopped in my tracks at the sight of a monumental arch two stories high hovering over fast-moving traffic. It was the Arch of Hadrian, or Hadrian’s Gate, that once spanned an ancient road leading to the Temple of Zeus, God of all gods. Made of marble, it was erected circa 132 AD marking the boundary between the ancient city and new Athens celebrating the arrival of the Roman emperor who loved all things Greek. Known as the peaceful ruler, Hadrian advanced culture and literature in Athens and was the architect of the city’s rebuilding, including Hadrian’s Library designed in the style of the Roman Forum. Located at the opposite end of Adrianou Street, it was not a lending library, but a venue for study, lectures, intellectual exchange, and was the official repository for state documents. If I could go back in time to sit in on a philosophical discourse. In my haste, I almost missed the sign pointing in the direction of the Acropolis Museum (designed by New York-based architect Bernard Tschumi) that opened in June 2009 at the foot of the ancient citadel and 1,000 feet from the Parthenon. It replaced the original museum built on the Acropolis in 1874 that had become too small to house the over 4,000 artefacts found during numerous excavations conducted around the Acropolis. It closed its doors in 2007. The raised foundation of the new high-tech archaeological museum’s 26,900 square feet is supported by 100 pillars above a protected ancient site discovered during ground breaking. Excavations had uncovered two layers of housing and workshops dating back to the Byzantine period (330-1453 AD) and the Classical period (1775-1825). Walking on glass floors both outside and inside the museum, I delighted in viewing the breadth of the extensive ruins underneath my feet. Inside, floor-to-ceiling glass walls let natural sunlight pour through. A minimalist look throughout the museum draws all attention to the antiquities on exhibit and on the first floor the rising slope of a wide hall was designed to give guests the feel of ascending the acropolis. And in the Parthenon Gallery on the top floor, the Parthenon is in full view. A principal motivation for building the new Acropolis Museum has been for the eventual return of the Parthenon Marbles, also known as the Elgin Marbles, from Great Britain. In 1799 Lord Elgin, Great Britain’s ambassador to the Ottoman Empire, sought “permission” to move half of the Parthenon’s statues to England that were later sold to the British Government and have been on display at the British Museum ever since. The reason for not returning the precious relics to Greece, it has been claimed, was that the museum on the acropolis was too small to properly house them. That is not the case now. Greece may soon see reunification of the marbles. In July 2016, a bi-partisan bill was introduced in the British Parliament to invalidate that improper acquisition over 200 years ago -- and to return the marbles to their rightful home. The hours were passing quickly, yet there was so much more to experience – lively squares, flea markets, endless museums, great restaurants, and more people-watching. Hustling back to the hotel, I recalled what a staff member had told me that morning. “You must be sure to see the beautiful view of the Acropolis from the restaurant terrace…before sundown!” Perhaps, on my return to Athens, I’ll pick up where I left off. IF YOU GO: For more information about Athens and Greece, visit www.visitgreece.gr My Accommodation: New Hotel, a remake of the former Olympic Palace Hotel that first opened in 1958. The 79-room boutique in “The Plaka” pays tribute to the spirit of Plaka, the oldest district in Athens. https://www.yeshotels.gr/newhotel/ Published version: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/04/17/a-flash-acquaintance-with-plaka-the-heart-of-athens PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (6 images) Gallery 2 (4 images)

Attending Chinese New Year in Richmond, British Columbia, turned into a rite of passage. My introduction to the multi-day celebration, also known as Lunar New Year or Spring Festival, was complete with firecrackers, traditional lion and dragon dances that ward off evil spirits -- and days of consuming “lucky food” to usher in good fortune and to feed the spiritual world, a centuries-old tradition in China. Unlike the American new year that always falls on January 1, Chinese New Year is marked by the lunar-solar calendar and falls on a different day each year. In 2017, the Year of the Rooster, it was January 29. In 2018, the Year of the Dog lands on February 16. Like the western zodiac, the Chinese Zodiac has 12 signs, but that’s where the similarities end. The Chinese signs represent only animals and in this order: Rat, Ox, Tiger, Rabbit, Dragon, Snake, Horse, Goat, Monkey, Rooster, Dog, and Pig (the year of your birth determines your sign). And while western zodiac signs each represent a month of the year, the Chinese zodiac is based on a 12-year cycle. So, the Rooster will relinquish its year in the limelight on February 15, 2018 and will not reappear until 2029. In America, adults are the usual New Year’s Eve revelers who toast until the last drop of champagne. But the Chinese holiday (also celebrated by other Asian countries) is a family affair that also remembers beloved ancestors. The atmosphere in Richmond, located south of Vancouver and minutes from Vancouver International Airport, was extraordinary. Over 60% of the island city’s population of 198,000 is Asian and 50% of that is Chinese. It’s no surprise then that the new year here is the largest celebration of its kind in Canada. And with Richmond’s fame for having the most authentic Chinese cuisine in North America (more than 400 restaurants), well, you might as well be in heaven. To my surprise, a shopping mall was the main venue. But it wasn’t just any mall. Named after Aberdeen, a popular Hong Kong destination, Aberdeen Center in Richmond is an impressive three-story “East meets West” indoor shopping haven in the Golden Village. Its curving façade and architecture in a contemporary pattern of blue, green, red, and white translucent glass “tiles” is an eye-catching work of art. With over 100 stores, Aberdeen Center is all things Asian with a Las Vegas-style musical fountain and overlooking the water show is an 800-seat food court offering international dishes, including favorites from all over Asia. And since 2006 the mall has been home to the Fairchild Group’s Chinese-language television and radio stations. “Being in Richmond,” a local told me, “…is like being in China without flying there!” Thousands gathered at Aberdeen Center where festivalgoers claimed their viewing spots hours in advance to see stage performances and the much-anticipated lion and dragon dances. My companions and I were too late for the best “seats,” but I had great fun navigating through the crowds competing for sightings during “Pick the Green” where the red dragon slithered from store to store, floor to floor, and up and down escalators gobbling lettuce dangling from merchants’ doorways (lettuce symbolizes prosperity). And when it comes to food, the expression, “You are what you eat,” can’t be illustrated better than during Chinese New Year. Special dishes – because of their shape or the sound of their pronunciation -- are prepared especially for the holiday representing all things good for the coming year such as long noodles (long life), spring rolls for prosperity (its shape looks like gold bars), dumplings (wealth), fish served whole (for completeness) and eaten towards the end of the meal (its Chinese pronunciation sounds like abundance), lettuce (good fortune), and round sweet sticky rice (for family togetherness), to name just a few. Alongside families at busy dining spots around Richmond we delved into the glorious flavors of the city – Golden Sichuan (or Szechuan) where cooking with chilis reigns supreme; dim sum at Fisherman’s Terrace where its dumplings are said to be the best in town and its dessert of sesame balls made with green melon and a lovely sweet black sesame center is certainly the most photogenic; and Silkway Halal where we savored dish after dish of fabulous Kosher Sichaun cuisine. All the while I couldn’t help but sense the privilege of partaking in such a vibrant yet intimate time of year. Days of non-stop activities culminated with a “private” Chinese New Year Eve dinner in the modest dining room of Golden Paramount. With window curtains drawn at the Hong Kong-style restaurant, the ambience contrasted with more opulent banquet dinner venues around the city. “It’s not a showy place,” said local food writer Lee Man who was born in Hong Kong and raised in Vancouver. “In Hong Kong, people like quiet and serene.” Man pointed out that dishes are delivered one at a time, “Hong Kong-style serving,” he called it, ”…so that guests can enjoy each one individually.” Indeed, the evening was a delicious affair that was equal parts spiritual reverence, family reunion, and food fest. A cornucopia of glorious dishes graced the table including stir-fried Typhoon Shelter Crab made with garlic, scallions, bean sauce and chilis (the dish originated with the typhoon shelter culture of Hong Kong), and deboned Eight Treasure Duck stuffed with mushrooms, chestnuts, sticky rice, sausage, barley, lotus seeds, salted duck egg yolk, and other savory ingredients. An unexpected discovery was Wild Sweets confectionery “atelier” not far from the Golden Village. A whimsical life-size rooster made from chocolate sat in the window. Surrounding it were elegant red and gold boxes filled with special edition Year of the Rooster chocolates created by world acclaimed chocolatiers Dominique and Cindy Duby. The couple’s science-based chocolate lab is the only one in Canada where original recipes and sweet creations are made from cocoa beans hand-selected by the Dubys. We sat for the most educational, decadent, and fun chocolate-tasting session I’ve ever experienced that was, in a word, ecstasy. Chinese New Year also includes gift-giving, but only for children in the form of “lucky money” tucked inside red envelopes -- or pockets. In China, red is a lucky color symbolizing happiness, beauty, vitality, and good fortune. And what is Chinese New Year without superstitions to keep everyone on their toes? A clean house before the clock strikes midnight is big. Brooms and dust pans are put away and their use on New Year’s Day is forbidden to avoid sweeping away good fortune. Clean the slate by paying all debts. And setting off firecrackers shoos away the old year and welcomes in the new one. Always have a good attitude on Chinese New Year and always look your personal best. I will be more than ready for Year of the Dog. Red everywhere, I will clean like crazy, and on Chinese New Year I’ll be all dolled up. But I won’t shampoo my hair. That will wash away good luck. WHEN YOU GO: To learn more about Richmond and the 2018 Chinese New Year program of events, see www.visitrichmond.com Chinese New Year activities include the Flower and Gift Fair, Countdown Night, Pre-Countdown Stage Show, drumming, craft-making, meditation, and personal blessings from the Chinese God of Fortune, and much more. My accommodation: Marriott Vancouver Airport Hotel, toll-free 877-323-8888; www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/yvrsa-vancouver-airport-marriott-hotel Published version: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/01/18/feeling-the-luck-at-richmonds-chinese-new-year PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (8 images) Gallery 2 (5 images)

“Mountain huts are not meant for long holidays,” said Tina, who works part-time at Alpe Rompiago, an alpine farmhouse in Ticino, Switzerland’s southern canton neighboring Italy and where Italian is the official language. It is among over 30 small farmhouses and huts scattered around the Calgiallo region above the posh city of Lugano that offer hikers and cyclists a place to eat and rest. “…They stop to enjoy a slice of cheese, bread, a glass of wine or to stay a night or two. Otherwise, they have to go back down to the valley.” As we dined 4,000 feet above sea level on a Ticinese meal of baby goat stew cooked with red wine and served with creamy polenta, I never imagined that my farm stay would be on a hilltop above the forest, with views of jagged peaks, the glacial waters of Lake Lugano – and meals that would bring me to my knees. The next day a friendly cyclist, surprised to hear an American accent, couldn’t resist asking, “How is it that you are here?” I’m an overnight guest, I told him, keen to learn more about “agriturismo,” the time-honored tradition of caring for the land and welcoming visitors – an authenticity unique to Ticino and kept alive today thanks to passionate farmers, cheese makers, and producers. But before arriving in Ticino, I satisfied my “city girl” side with visits to cosmopolitan Zurich, Bern, and Lucerne in the northern and central parts of the country. Then, ready to dig my shoes into the dirt, I hopped the Gotthard Panorama Express train that snaked over the magnificent Alps and descended into the Mediterranean climes of posh Lugano, the canton’s largest city and the country’s third largest financial center. Trendy shops and cafes tempted me but recalling a day hike here years ago and eager to explore the hills again, I stayed just a night. The farmhouse was only an hour by bus from Lugano by way of the ancient villages of Tesserete, then Bidogno, where my ride was waiting to take me up the steep road. Sharp hairpin turns through the forest transported me from fashionable city streets to a natural world. And how could I not be thrilled when goats and chickens were the first to greet me? Enter Maurizio Minoletti and Sylvia Wyss, New World farmers who honor Old World ways of farming. No big machines, no dishwasher, no chemicals, everything by hand. Clad in colorful t-shirts, khakis and Crocs, the 40-ish couple has been raising farm animals and selling cheese, milk, marmalade, wines from Ticino, soaps and more since coming to Alpe Rompiago 13 years ago. “I never worked with animals until I came to the farm!” smiled Wyss, a professional baker by trade. No Internet service was delightfully liberating, and I focused only on the workings of this seasonal farm that is part of Patriziato di Calgiallo, a longstanding common property institution dating back to the area’s original patrician families. Here, the land is not owned by anyone, but cared for by those living within its boundaries. Every summer with animals in tow, the couple comes up from the valley to Alpe Rompiago. For three months they manage the farm while the animals graze to their content in mountain pastures abundant with wild herbs and flowers. I was instantly humbled and inspired. A simple 10-bed dormitory. Animals roaming free. And Minoletti and Wyss working from sun-up to long after sundown brought to light what “labor of love” really means. Every day they milk the goats and the cows, feed the horses and pigs, mind the chickens, care for the vegetable garden, then they make a variety of food products including splendid cheeses -- formaggini, formagella, buscion, and ricotta -- that are sold in the villages. Most of us would call it a day after doing half of that. Wyss also whips up fabulous dinners for guests who journey up the hill to enjoy her glorious meals inside the glass-walled dining room that looks out to Lugano’s twinkling lights. And by day through the windows, I captured the goings on around the old stone barn. Like the moment I was savoring a lunch of sliced tomatoes and fried eggs topped with crispy curly bacon, then gulped down a mouthful to watch a drove of goats herded by laser-focused dogs leading them out to graze. Visitors, including children, can also try their hand at milking the goats, collecting eggs, or helping with other tasks. I gave a hand drying dishes after a group dinner. And I milked my very first goat. Forget glamping, this was the real deal. In the creamery Wyss processed the low-fat goat milk into delicious soft cheese that ages in two to three days. She poured the curdled milk into cheesecloth then hung the bulging “sacks” allowing the excess moisture, or whey, to drip and separate from the curd. She then feeds the protein-rich liquid to all the lucky pigs. “We have just one week left for milking,” Wyss said, “…because the goats have very little milk now.” Indeed, it was almost mid-September. Minoletti and Wyss would soon be closing the farmhouse for the winter -- until next May when they will do their noble work all over again. WHEN YOU GO: Alpe Rompiago: www.ticino.ch.en/farmhouses.details Email: wyssswylviaarosa@gmail.com My lodging in Lugano: Hotel de la Paix; www.delapaix.ch Published version: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/04/18/agritourism-in-ticino-offers-respite-divine-meals-and-work