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In two days I ascended two mountains in the heart of Switzerland and never broke a sweat -- thanks to late 19th century visionaries who had discovered the dramatic views to be had from the peaks of Mount Rigi and Mount Burgenstock -- and stopped at nothing to make it possible for Lucerne’s earliest tourists to also witness the splendor of “The Rigi” (aka Queen of the Mountains) and “The Burgenstock” -- 5,900 feet and 3,700 feet above sea level respectively and where nothing is ordinary. Their genius delivered. By way of rail, funicular and cable car, I “climbed” to the summits of these vastly different mountains scaled by settlers, pilgrims, writers, and royalty, the earliest of whom made the trek on foot or, for the wealthy, atop sedan chairs carried by local villagers. For the next 48 hours, I connected with these legends, staying a night on each peak. My journey started on board a vintage paddlewheel steamer in Lucerne, the capital of canton Lucerne where I joined others for the 45-minute crossing over sparkling Lake Lucerne delivering us to Weggis at the base of the Rigi. Three ways would get us up the mountain -- by foot, aerial cable car, or cogwheel train that was Europe’s first mountain railway. Opting for the cable car, the steep 10-minute climb seemed longer rewarding us with thrilling views of the fjord-like lake until we arrived at Rigi Kaltbad, home of the Mineral Baths and Spa, the village square, and a hotel designed by Swiss architect Mario Botta. It’s also the starting point for a fantastic network of easy hikes, including the Mark Twain path that follows the routes that the great American writer and humorist climbed in 1878 and 1897. Steps from the hotel, we caught the steam train that delivered us to Rigi Kulm. Feeling on top of the world here was an understatement. Amazed visitors from different parts of the globe offered their own versions of “Wow!” at stunning 360-degree views over 13 lakes and the “sea of peaks” so fittingly described on interpretive boards full of facts and lore. Hardly noticed on a hill above the railroad tracks was a lone stone chapel named “Regina Montium,” Latin for Queen of the Mountains. And it was through a refreshing hike and delightful meals on the Rigi that I embraced the bliss – cows grazing nearby as we savored a traditional lunch of dried meats, fresh cheeses, and wine at an alpine farm; and a mid-air three-course dinner by candle light inside the ever-so-slow-moving cable car that by night transforms into a dining experience that was nothing short of magical. My next “port of call” was Mount Burgenstock on the other side of the lake where the only way up to the cliff-top plateau from the water is by the funicular (built in 1888) or the 46-story high Hammetschwand Lift (the highest outdoor elevator in Europe, built in 1905). It was during the extravagant Belle Epoque that the secluded meadow on the plateau inspired Franz Josef Bucher to build the Grand Hotel in 1873 – the first business to open on the Burgenstock. With future growth came the Park Hotel (1888), the Palace Hotel (1904), and a golf course (1928), transforming the Burgenstock plateau into a meeting place and getaway for kings and queens, heads of state, and the rich and famous. Like Indira Gandhi, Charlie Chaplin, Jimmy Carter, Sophia Loren (she and Carlo Ponti lived in a chalet there), and Audrey Hepburn who married Mel Ferrer at the tiny Burgenstock Chapel built in 1897. The chapel also marks the beginning of the spectacular Cliff Walk -- constructed at the turn of the 20th century by dynamiting a walking path around the plateau. No small feat, the legendary trail leads to the Hammetschwand Lift and the Hammetschwand, the highest point in Lucerne. If only Mr. Bucher and the first A-list of visitors to “Burgenstock” could see the resort it has become. The funicular, the Hammetschwand Lift, and the Cliff Walk have been attractions for centuries. But in 2011, the funicular ceased operation while “Burgenstock” went through a massive rebirth lasting years until its re-opening in 2017 befitting a new generation of travelers. Elegant as ever, yet delightfully approachable, the thoroughly modern car-free Burgenstock has evolved into a community -- 30 structures housing a dozen restaurants, bars and lounges; five hotels (including a medical hotel), shops, apartments, a cinema, a skating rink, and a tennis dome. But not all is new. What made the plateau legendary remain as lasting memories of an earlier Burgenstock -- the Grand Hotel (reincarnated into residential units), the Palace Hotel, and Taverne 1879 (a traditional Swiss inn and restaurant). And the chapel. Even the original swimming pool, a registered historical monument, beckons guests to take a swim. On my day of departure, my Swiss travel companion and I embarked on a pre-breakfast stroll on the Cliff Walk. There wasn’t enough time to reach the Hammetschwand Lift, but on that tranquil morning we embraced the rolling fog over the lake below, a light drizzle, and the soothing sounds of an alpenhorn in the distance -- reminders of the mystique on the Burgenstock. WHEN YOU GO: www.rigi.ch/en www.buergenstock.ch.en My accommodations on Mount Rigi: Hotel Rigi Kaltbad; My accommodation on Mount Burgenstock: Palace Hotel Published version: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/03/18/the-stuff-of-dreams-on-the-rigi-and-the-burgenstock PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (7 images) Gallery 2 (8 images)

The Orient Express’ maiden journey between Paris and Constantinople (present-day Istanbul) in 1833 was a game-changer for travel on the Continent. The four-day trek involved two stages, the first starting at London Victoria Station. Aboard opulently-appointed Pullman carriages, passengers dressed to the nines were conveyed to Dover on the southeastern coast. There they crossed the English Channel by boat to Calais, France, then continued to Paris. The golden age of travel had arrived and soon royalty, heads of state and the well-to-do flocked to the luxury rail line as their choice of travel. Still today, the mere mention of the Orient Express conjures up thoughts of romance, intrigue and adventure, thanks mostly to Agatha Christie’s thrilling 1934 novel which was later made into a movie, Murder on the Orient Express. Hungry for a taste of that wistful past, my aunt and I buy a ticket on the Orient Express – okay, not THE Orient Express but the Belmond British Pullman, its opulent British cousin that duplicates the English leg of the original 1833 route on a day trip that will have us back in London by bedtime. Standing on Platform 2 at Victoria Station, a rush of nostalgia overcomes us as we wait to board the exquisite Pullman cars, named after American industrialist George Pullman, who pioneered the first-class sleeper and restaurant cars that became the standard for luxury rail service throughout Britain in the late 1800s. Stepping on to the chocolate and cream-colored vintage cars is like stepping back in time – our meticulously-restored dining car, named Cygnus, dates back to the 1920s and features brass luggage racks, mahogany-paneled walls with exquisite marquetry. Our white linen-covered table set with fine china, heavy crystal, elegant silverware, and a lamp with a silk-pleated shade looked like it was set for the Queen. Rolling slowly out of the bustling British capital, views soon opened to landscapes of quintessential English countryside dotted with grazing sheep -- the perfect antidote for us and our fellow passengers who needed to escape from our busy worlds. Attendants welcomed us with Peach Bellinis and light appetizers followed by a sumptuous multi-course brunch (pastries, yogurt with fresh berries, and scrambled eggs with chopped chives over a toasted crumpet with “London Cure” Scottish smoked salmon). By noon, we disembarked for an afternoon at Sissinghurst Castle Gardens, and on the return to London, lingered over a five-course dinner. The atmosphere onboard was magically peaceful. That’s because cell phone use is discouraged. Not a single ping interrupted conversation and everyone seemed to be in their own blissful space. That is, until friendly chatter broke out as meals on silver platters were skillfully maneuvered through tight space with perfect choreography -- one course at a time. Train Manager Andor Karadi stopped at our table to make sure we were happy guests and shared stories about the train. “Do you know how we got the chairs into the carriages?” Karadi asked as we glanced at our hefty upholstered seats. “The doors and windows are too small, so they were put through the roof.” They’re never removed from the carriage. Regular refurbishment takes place inside the cars. We looked at our chairs again and wondered which royal figures, presidents or Nobel Laureates sat in the ones we were occupying. And while the Belmond British Pullman consists of 11 cars, Karadi continued, “You will see only 10 on any given day because one at a time each car is carefully serviced and maintained.” And every car has a name and a story. Cygnus was part of the 1965 funeral train for Winston Churchill. Phoenix was the royal carriage used by President Charles de Gaulle of France on his state visit in 1960. And during his state visit in 1996, South African President Nelson Mandela was partial to Vera because of her springbok marquetry. But this day trip experience might not exist had it not been for American James Sherwood, who owned a shipping company based in Britain. In May 1977, the Orient Express (which had evolved to the Simplon Orient Express), made its last run. While attending a Sotheby auction in Monte Carlo the following fall, Sherwood – on a whim – purchased two abandoned Pullman carriages. He was inspired by the awe the carriages drew at the auction and realized then that there was magic in the Orient Express name. Sherwood located the remainder of the rolling stock, restored the aging cars and by May 1982 he brought the romance back with the relaunch of the Venice Simplon-Orient Express. Privately owned by Belmond Ltd., its route serves London, Paris, Verona and Venice. A nostalgic Paris-to-Istanbul journey is offered once a year. And thanks to this day trip, we might not have discovered internationally-renowned Sissinghurst Castle Gardens and learned the intriguing story of its founders -- poet and landscape designer Vita Sackville-West and her author/diplomat husband, Harold Nicholson. In the middle of nowhere, the couple bought the decaying property in 1930 then transformed the once aristocratic home-turned prisoner-of-war camp (during the Seven Years War)-turned-derelict homestead into one of England’s finest gardens. The castle and its 10 garden “rooms” are listed in the National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty. The 16th century tower was Sackville-West’s sanctuary where she wrote each night. She also kept journals about her lesbian liaisons that were never known to her children until after her death. Virginia Woolf was one of her lovers. Back on the train just before sunset, attendants welcomed us back with Champagne and hor d’oeuvres, followed by dinner highlights of ballotine of chicken, seared fillet of seabass, and dessert of traditional Eton mess cheesecake. “Take a walk through the carriages,” Karadi urged. “…they’re all different and beautiful.” In the vestibules, he said, wooden plaques describe each car’s place in history. Next time we’ll sample a different day trip. But then again, we just might cross the Channel. JUST THE FACTS: To learn more about the Belmond British Pullman, visit www.belmond.com Learn about Sissinghurst Castle Garden at www.nationaltrust.org.uk/sissinghurst-castle-garden My overnight accommodations while in London: Strand Palace Hotel, www.strandpalacehotel.co.uk and Dukes London, www.dukeshotel.com Published version: http://www.travelife.ca/DESTINATIONS/Europe2/tabid/533/ArticleID/2445/A-day-trip-back-in-time.aspx#.XQ1kvEqgv1U.mailt PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (4 images) Gallery 2 (5 images)

Below the radar, but on the beaten path, Cambria on the Golden State’s central coast is not a beach town, but a jewel of a seaside village established in 1866. It’s no wonder my friend was set on celebrating her birthday here, one of her favorite places on the planet. Off Highway 1 between Los Angeles and San Francisco, a rugged beach, wildflowers, dramatic Monterey Pines (one of three native forests in the world) and Moonstone Beach are Cambria’s backyard. It is said that semi-precious moonstones can be found here. The Greeks connected moonstones to the lunar gods and the Romans believed it was formed by solidified moon rays. So, why didn’t I ever stop here before while on road trips to Hearst Castle in San Simeon or wine country in Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo and Paso Robles? In the middle of July and no summer crowds, this was the antidote our small group of city slickers needed to recharge and revel. Each morning, breakfast baskets hung outside our guest room doors. With our first meal of the day in-hand, we grabbed a cup of coffee and cozied up on Adirondack chairs overlooking the sea, then crossed the street for a lazy wake-up stroll on the long boardwalk on the bluffs above the beach – serene pleasures we just don’t get every day. The temptation to chill all day was irresistible, but we welcomed a loosely structured itinerary that acquainted us with the magic of Cambria. Our two-car caravan headed 10 minutes north on Highway 1 to Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, the world’s most accessible location for bird’s-eye viewing of the beautiful mammals that migrate here twice a year – December-March for birthing and breeding, and April-July to molt and grow new fur. After summer, the “teenagers” come ashore to frolic and play. There’s no admission fee to see the seals in this rare natural setting. Docent Bill Kneeland greeted us on the viewing path and enlightened us on the Southern Elephant Seals. “There are about a dozen rookeries off the west coast, including Baja California,” he explained, “…but they’re island-based.” The giant seals take turns molting, said Kneeland, as he pointed to the all-male group below – most lined up along the sand while others practiced their manliness in the water chest-bumping each other and barking out challenge calls. And they got their name because the male bulls have large noses, like elephant trunks. Adult males reach 14-16 feet in length while females are 9-12 feet long. This mesmerizing spectacle held us captive until lunch time. From the rookery we continued on Highway 1 to nearby Sebastian’s General Store to sink our teeth into its famous “chic burgers.” We not only satisfied our taste buds, we learned about the general store’s fascinating history. Located on San Simeon Bay across the entrance to Hearst Castle, Sebastian’s General Store was the hub of commerce during the mid-19th century providing goods for fishermen, whalers, miners, and farmers. Old San Simeon Village was home to two first-class hotels, was a depot for stage travel to Cambria, and the warehouse at San Simeon Pier stored European furnishings and art during the construction of publishing magnate William Randolph Hearst’s castle atop San Simeon. Purchased by the Sebastian Brothers in 1919, the general store still welcomes travelers. Lunching in the rustic outdoors was a delightful repose and the old warehouse and post office whisked my imagination to a bygone time. Inside, the Hearst Ranch Winery tasting room offers samplings from the Paso Robles Appellation. Another unexpected find was “Harmony, Population 18,” a town the size of a city block five minutes’ drive south of Cambria – that we would have missed if we blinked. Harmony was first settled by Swiss-Italian dairy farmers in the late 19th century. Using Old World methods, they made high-quality cheeses and butter that earned statewide acclaim. Regular customers here included Mr. Hearst and his Hollywood guests who bought dairy products on their way to Hearst Ranch. The town’s unusual name was the result of a truce made in the late 1800s by locals -- to live together in peace after a killing occurred between feuding farmers. Following decades of abandonment, a revival of the little town began in 1972 putting Harmony back on the map. We spotted the Harmony Valley Creamery ice cream truck parked in a lot and straightaway ordered scoops for everyone, then strolled around the refurbished creamery grounds -- gardens, Harmony Pottery Shop, Harmony Glass Works (a gift shop, glassmaking school and gallery), and a tiny wedding chapel. By day we immersed our senses in the peaceful outdoors while discovering Cambria’s extraordinary history. By dinner time, we celebrated and savored the best flavors in town at a different restaurant each night. My only regret, though, was not enough time to take in a backcountry-like experience at Fiscalini Ranch Preserve -- without leaving Cambria. On a 400-foot bluff above the sea, the 430-acre preserve is a biologically diverse habitat for migrating wildlife. The Monterey Pine forest provides protective coverage for birds and animals – from monarch butterflies, turtles, frogs, owls, hawks and herons to deer, bobcats and coyotes – and more. There’s no cost to roam the preserve that’s open every day and closes at dusk each night. We had come to Cambria to celebrate our friend’s birthday. But truly, I think Cambria was her gift to us. WHEN YOU GO Learn more about Cambria: Visit www.visitcambriaca.com My overnight accommodation: Sea Otter Inn, www.seaotterinn.com Published version: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/06/19/cambria-is-a-sparkling-gem-on-californias-coast PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 - Glass Sculpture Gallery 2 (8 images)

With the seventh largest public plaza in the world, a meandering river walk, world-class museums, an outrageous culinary scene, home to Mexico’s best universities and medical schools, the hip suburb of San Pedro, and Chipinque National Park as its back yard, it’s hard not to have a good time in cosmopolitan Monterrey, spelled with two Rs. The shocker is that just south of Texas, this vibrant capital of the northeastern state of Nuevo Leon is the country’s most American-looking city – and a best kept secret under the tourist radar. But. That is changing. A March 2017 survey ranked Monterrey as having the best quality of life in Mexico, according to Mercer, the international human resources firm that measures the infrastructure, transportation, and safety of cities around the world to help international companies decide where to open offices and send their expats. Corporations from around the globe in automotive, aerospace, and manufacturing already occupy the buildings that shape its skyline. This news was “musica” to my ears because Monterrey has bounced back after the dangerous drug-related years between 2008 and 2011 that temporarily slowed time for the progressive metropolis of 1.2 million hard-working and sophisticated inhabitants who energize Mexico’s financial hub and economic powerhouse. And according to the United Nations’ annual World Happiness Report, the people of Mexico, especially in Monterrey, are among the happiest on the planet, right up there with Norway, Denmark, Switzerland, and Canada. I found proof in this finding when I attended a grand family “boda,” or wedding, on my husband Louie’s side. Fueled by a second dinner served in the middle of the night, guests dressed to the nines danced non-stop with the bride and groom until 6:00 a.m. With each visit, I am charmed by the traditions here – like barbecues where men are not only kings of the grill, they also serve the women. And like an onion full of surprising flavors, I peel off more layers of the city, especially in San Pedro (Monterrey’s Beverly Hills) where Louie’s cousin, Alejandro and his family live. With a population of about 125,000 residents, it looked a lot like Los Angeles – freeways, traffic, modern high-rises, Starbucks everywhere, minus a coastline. But what Monterrey lacks in sandy beaches is replaced with the dramatic Sierra Madre Oriental mountain range. At almost 1,800 feet above sea level, San Pedro is at its foothills and is the gateway to the forests and beautifully maintained hiking trails of Chipinque National Park, Mexico’s best-preserved park with look-outs to the most romantic views of the city. “When I was a boy,” Alejandro told us during a refreshing hike in the woods, “I used to take walks here with my father all the time.” Monterrey is an urban paradise. From just about anywhere in the city I could glance up to its legendary mountain peaks, “Cerro de la Silla” or Saddle Hill because it’s shaped like a saddle and “La Eme” is shaped like the letter “M.” It’s no wonder everyone loves the outdoors here, especially along tree-lined Calzado del Valle, San Pedro’s main avenue where joggers and walkers shared the cushioned pathway passing upscale apartments, shops, luxury car showrooms, and so many restaurants that you can eat out every day for months and never go to the same place twice. I admit that I had an ulterior mission while in Monterrey: I couldn’t leave without eating “cabrito,” the region’s traditional meal of roasted goat kid, a gastronomic holdover that originated with the area’s Jewish founders from Spain during the late 16th century. Lunchtime was busy at San Carlos, one of many restaurants specializing in cabrito where whole goats on the spit slow-cooked over simmering coals. I’ve never eaten goat this splendid. A lot of Canadians know this because they are regular clientele, Roberto, a staff member told me. The lean meat was extraordinary – light, tender, juicy, and full of flavor. In this arid, land-locked state raising cattle, goats and sheep has reigned for centuries. Drying food was a preservation technique dating back to the indigenous Tlaxcalteca and “carne seca,” or dried beef, became another specialty of Monterrey. The super-thin sheets of beef practically tear apart on their own. A favorite Monterrey dish is “machaca,” carne seca mixed with eggs. We booked a room at nearby MS Milenium located across the street from the ritzy Plaza Fiesta San Augustine shopping mall where we escaped from the summer heat, wandered the shops, and “desayunamos” or ate breakfast at legendary Sanborns (no apostrophe) department store founded in 1903 by California immigrant brothers Walter and Frank Sanborn. It is said that Mexican revolutionary leader Emilio Zapata’s troops had their first restaurant meal at the original Sanborns in Mexico City – where the slogan “Meet me at Sanborns” was born. While San Pedro has evolved into Monterrey’s modern commercial hub, Macroplaza -- Monterrey’s ginormous pedestrian town square in the heart of the city -- is the pulse of cultural immersion and a popular gathering spot. Built during the early 1980s, it’s a landscape of gardens and monuments like the fountain of Neptune, the Governor’s Palace, the public library, and the 70-meter high “Faro del Comerica” or Lighthouse of Commerce that each night shoots a light beam into the sky. Surrounding Macroplaza are “Barrio Antigua,” Monterrey’s 18th century Spanish colonial neighborhood; the historic Metropolitan Cathedral of Monterrey; and major museums – Museum of Contemporary Art (MARCO), Museum of Mexican History, Metropolitan Museum, and Museum of the Northwest. We strolled along Santa Lucia Riverwalk constructed in 2007, another city jewel. Flowing one-and-a-half miles (with free wireless Internet access) it connects Macroplaza to “Fundidora,” Monterrey’s landmark steel foundry-turned museum and important educational center (the foundry operated from 1900-1986). The complex’s revitalization also includes a sustainable urban park and a restaurant. And overlooking the river walk is one of Canada’s five authentic inuksuks, a gift from the Canadian government and the Monterrey chapter of the Canadian Chamber of Commerce on its 10th anniversary in 2007. The beacon of friendship and peace was erected mostly with stones gathered from a local quarry. Its heart, however, was formed with two rocks brought from Canada by artist Bill Nasogoluak, its creator. One came from the high Arctic. The other from Toronto. IF YOU GO: For information about visiting Monterrey, see www.visitmexico.com MS Milenium Hotel: www.hotelesmilenium.com Published version: http://www.travelife.ca/DESTINATIONS/LatinAmerica2/tabid/544/ArticleID/2254/L-A-like-Monterrey-is-the-‘star’-of-Mexico.aspx#.WdFpEUtfTI0.email PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (2 images) Gallery 2 (2 images)

Wine country in England? Say what? When I learned about winemaking in Hampshire, an hour’s train ride south of London that’s producing world-class sparkling wine, I bee-lined over the pond last September to see the vines with my own eyes. The weather was dry and unusually warm as we drove through the rolling hills of Hampshire, one of the largest agricultural regions in England tucked inside South Downs National Park, the UK’s newest national park, designated in 2009. Clive Tillbrook of Hampshire Tours was behind the wheel. He’s among the first to acquaint visitors with Hampshire wine country, including tastings and tours of the vineyards. He collected me at my hotel in Winchester, England’s ancient capital, and my base for exploring Hampshire county. In a Land Rover Discovery, we cruised along country lanes and through enchanting forests. “Winemaking in the UK goes right back to Roman times,” said Tillbrook, “…but the sparkling wine business is young.” England’s got the same chalk soil as Champagne, France, located 80 miles across the English Channel. With long, hot and dry summers -- effects of global warming – the region’s climate is what Champagne enjoyed 20 years ago. The main production here is sparkling wine with an estimated 6,200 acres of planted vines, over 500 commercial vineyards, and more than 130 wineries. We visited three different and notable operations – Hambledon Vineyard, Raimes Family Vineyard, and Hattlingly Valley, all part of “Vineyards of Hampshire,” a friendly collective of vineyards that raises awareness of the acclaimed wine region that’s attracting even the French. Touring 200-acre Hambledon Vineyard, the UK’s oldest commercial vineyard and the birthplace of England’s bubblies, was a fantastic mini-course on the story of English sparkling wine. The first grapevine was planted here in 1952 by Major General Sir Guy Salisbury-Jones, a diplomat in Paris and wine lover. His friends at prestigious Pol Roger Champagne House nudged him to take the winegrower’s leap of faith and by the late 1960s his still wines were winning awards. Today, Sir Guy’s vineyard thrives and, like a leafy carpet, rolls down the south-facing slope to the road. Fast forward to 1999, a restoration of Hambledon happened when biochemist, food analyst and wine lover Ian Kellet acquired the historic vineyard. His research on the soil, climate, economics and study of oenology concluded that conditions were ripe for growing chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier – the noble grape varietals used for making Champagne. In 2013, Camilla Duchess of Cornwall – she’s from a winegrowing family and was president of the UK Vineyards Association -- opened Hambledon’s winery, the only state-of-the-art gravity-fed winery in the country. “Grapes are handpicked to minimize damage,” explained Steve Lowrie, Hambledon’s gregarious marketing chief, as he led me through every step of the winemaking process. Simple gravity moves wine or must between tanks, “…not pumps, which can cause chemical changes.” Then I met Felix Gabillet, Hambledon’s onsite winemaker -- and sparkling wine guru. I was impressed to see someone so young at the helm. Together with head winemaker Herve Jestin, among the best in Champagne, the formidable pair creates utterly elegant cuvees. So how many fermentations does it take to make sparkling wine? The quick answer is two. The second fermentation is when yeast and sugar interact creating flavor, aroma, and bubbly magic. After aging on the lees (dead yeast cells) a minimum of 33 months, the yeast sediment is removed through the riddling process to achieve crystal clear champagne. “Riddling was invented by the Widow Clicquot,” said Lowrie. In 1816 Veuve Clicquot (pronounced vev KLEE-koh), the Grand Dame of Champagne, found a way to remove the yeast sediment that caused cloudy champagne. She twisted upside-down bottles ever-so-slowly until the loose yeast formed a “glob” at the neck and was then removed. The same method is used today, but the neck of the bottle is frozen so that the yeast plug (the glob) is popped out through disgorging. The bottle is finally corked, wire caged and labeled. Our next stop, Raimes Family Vineyard, got me up close to the vines. Wife-and-husband team Augusta and Robert Raimes, fifth-generation tenant farmers, have diversified into viticulture with two 20-acre vineyards. The awards they have garnered attest to the quality of grapes they cultivate. “It’s truly a labor of love,” said Augusta who studied oenology. She and Robert (an agronomist) maintain the vines with other family members. For the bigger jobs like pruning and the harvest, they bring in larger teams, Augusta explained as we bumped along a riding trail in the Raimes jeep on the way to the chardonnay paddock. “We are absolutely LOADED!” Augusta enthused as we walked a row of picture-perfect fruit. “We’re seeing an average of 20 bunches per vine – compared to only three last year because of the major frost event.” An active leader in Hampshire’s agricultural organizations, Augusta is excited about the future of English sparkling wine. Hard work got us to where we are today, she said. “But future generations – our children -- will enjoy the rewards.” At 60-acre Hattingley Valley owned by Simon and Nicola Robinson I got the bigger picture of the English sparkling wine “movement.” Portuguese-born Claudia Lopes, full of energy and knowledge, assists with Hattingley’s marketing, events and tours. She explained the all-important contract winemaking business because small vineyards (such as Raimes) don’t have wineries and therefore rely on the services of contract operations like Hattingley Valley or Hambledon Vineyard (on a smaller scale). Both use French-designed Cocquard PAI presses, the Rolls Royce of presses, that squeeze out the precious juices with gentle horizontal pressure. Emma Rice, Hattingley Valley’s award-winning winemaker (two world championships), heads a young and talented team that makes 40 different wines. It’s hard work keeping up the pace, said Lopes, but it’s a feather in their cap when clients win awards. Hattingley’s signature style incorporates the use of old French oak barrels in a small percentage of its wines. With major expansions underway at Hambledon and Hattingley and with 2018’s “harvest of the century” doubling capacity, the sparkling wine business has awakened the sleepy English countryside as winemakers, pubs, and lodgings open their doors welcoming local and international visitors eager to discover Champagne’s sister across the Channel. WHEN YOU GO: Hampshire Tours: www.hampshiretours.net Tourism Hampshire: www.visit-hampshire.co.uk Hambledon Vineyard: www.hambledonvineyard.co.uk Raimes Family Vineyard: www.raimes.co.uk Hattingley Valley: www.hattingleyvalley.com Published version: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/05/19/hampshire-is-blazing-the-english-sparkling-wine-trail PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (8 images) Gallery 2 (7 images)

While exploring London and Winchester, England’s ancient capital an hour’s train ride south of the city, I wandered onto the “eaten” path and got a taste of the local flavors -- in more ways than one. On a walking food tour in London’s vibrant East End, Zahra, our Eating Europe guide and East Ender, welcomed our small group to “…the best food in all of London!” We noshed at the best kept secrets and learned local lore, the mission of Eating Europe tours. Like the story of the earliest immigrants who had settled east of London’s Roman and medieval walls – French Huguenots, Irish weavers, Jews from Poland and the Netherlands, Bangladeshi, and England’s rural poor – who left behind a tapestry of trades, cultures, and cuisines. “The most recent arrivals are the hipsters,” said Zahra, “…recognized by our tight jeans!” Their energy, music, and street art revived this once poverty-stricken neighborhood. Breaking bread with strangers became a heavenly seven-course meal -- from comfort dishes like St. John’s bacon sandwiches, bread and butter pudding at the English Restaurant and cod and chips at Poppie’s to British and French cheeses at The House of Androuet; then British ale and cider at The Pride of Spitalfields neighborhood pub; Aladin, one of London’s oldest curry houses visited by HRH Prince Charles; and Beigal Bake cured beef sandwich -- all finished with salted caramel tarts and a pot of tea at Pizza East. In the West End, I crossed the threshold into Dukes Bar keen to elevate my martini-neophyte taste buds with “the best martini in London” that stirred my imagination beyond the cocktail. Author Ian Fleming was a regular here while he penned “Casino Royale” in 1953, his first James Bond novel in which Agent 007 invented the Vesper (vodka) Martini and the phrase, “shaken, not stirred,” was coined. The intimate bar is inside Dukes London hotel in a hidden medieval courtyard near Buckingham Palace. The late-19th century building was originally the London Chambers for sons of aristocracy, then in 1908 morphed into a discreet hotel, hence its name. Alessandro Palazzi, virtuoso and Duke’s bar manager, could have been 007’s bartender. Tableside, on the same trolley that rolled to Fleming’s corner table, Palazzi rinsed my chilled martini glass with an English dry vermouth he co-created, followed with a slow pour of gin and finished with his signature ingredient, fragrant oil of Meyer lemon -- “…organic, from the Amalfi Coast,” he emphasized. No need for ice because the spirits come from the freezer. My Classic Martini was delicious. And strong. Hungry for the countryside, I hopped the train to Winchester in Hampshire County, home to Winchester Cathedral, ex-Londoners and my base for exploring this gastronomic paradise. Walking from the train station to my hotel on High Street, a colorful scene unfolded: Winchester’s famous Farmers Market, the UK’s largest that attracts up to 5,000 visitors. From local honey to scallops and squid, fresh produce to goat meat and goat cheese, baked goods, water buffalo burgers, and street performers, the atmosphere was nothing short of festive. “Saffron paella will be ready at 11:30!” the gregarious vendor announced. Water buffalo in the south of England? Indeed, the UK’s largest herd grazes away at Laverstoke Park Farm founded by Jody Scheckter, 1979 Formula One World Champion motor racing driver. From the fast lane to the farm, Scheckter used his technical acumen to grow the healthiest food for his family – a personal quest that became a serious study in soils management. Today, his analytic chemistry lab is Europe’s only licensed Soil Food Web Laboratory. Happy buffalo feast on over 30 herbs, grasses and cloves and in return produce nutritious low-fat milk used for making award-winning buffalo mozzarella and ice cream. And on a special tour, I watched how mozzarella, Italy’s delicious invention, is made. Next door to the farm, the revival of 300-year old Laverstoke Mill -- acclaimed conservation project, museum and extraordinary home of Bombay Sapphire gin distillery – was an enchanting find. On the banks of the River Test, the mill once made paper for bank notes for British colonies, including India, Jewel of the British Empire. And who knew the invention of gin and tonic in India (believed to ward off malaria), inspired the image of Queen Victoria, Empress of India, on every bottle of Bombay gin? A tour with Sam Carter, Bombay Sapphire’s Senior Ambassador who conducts Master Classes for the world’s top bartenders, was a crash course on the UK’s favorite spirit. “Gin must be made with ethanol of agricultural origin, water and flavored with botanicals,” explained Carter, “…but must be juniper-dominant,” true to the original 1761 gin recipe of Thomas Dakin. And getting up close to the Dakin stills was a rite of passage as I learned how the magic of Vapor Infusion extracts the bright flavors of juniper, angelica, almonds, coriander, lemon peel, cubeb berries, orris, licorice, grains of paradise and cassia bark -- all grown on-site in the tropical climes of the Glass Houses. Inside the interactive Botanical Dry Room, visitors sniff each botanical and pick their favorites – crafting a custom gin cocktail to imbibe at the distillery’s very own Mill Bar – one delightful sip at a time. WHEN YOU GO: Eating Europe Food Tours: www.eatingeurope.com/london/ Laverstoke Park Farm: www.laverstokepark.co.uk Bombay Sapphire: https://distillery.bombaysapphire.com My accommodations in London: Dukes London, www.dukeshotel.com; Strand Palace Hotel, www.strandpalacehotel.co.uk. In Winchester: No. 5 Bridge Street Bar, Kitchen & Rooms (former carriage house-turned upscale restaurant and inn) Published version: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/06/19/london-to-winchester-a-foodies-accidental-takeaway PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (10 images) Gallery 2 (11 images)

The 30-ish woman I had met in Los Angeles grinned with nostalgia when I mentioned my recent visit to Wisconsin. So, I got it when she spoke fondly of summers at the family lake house and boating on Lake Michigan. Stunningly scenic Door County Peninsula is really an island connected to the mainland by bridges across the Sturgeon Bay Canal. Seventy-five miles long and 10 miles wide, it pokes out like a long skinny thumb from the state’s northeastern corner into Lake Michigan. The bay of Green Bay is on the other side. With 298 miles of shoreline, blissful bays, and dense forests, people looking to escape the daily grind make their way to “Cape Cod of the Midwest” -- Door County’s nickname. Sure enough, when I arrived in the village of Ephraim (founded in 1853) and walked the long driveway to my room inside a white two-story wood-framed house, it felt a lot like New England -- a swing seat on the porch outside my window, the woods behind me, Adirondack chairs, and Eagle Harbor across the street. Door Peninsula is the state’s largest county -- and a world unto its own. It’s no wonder the wilderness and charming village life here attracts visitors from around the world. Wisconsin conjures up cheese and football to most non-Wisconsinites, but I fell hook, line and sinker for Door County’s remarkable shipwreck history, Scandinavian influences and glorious outdoors. Why, then, was this paradise first named Death’s Door -- or Portes des Mortes, French for Door of the Dead? According to legend, the Ho-Chunk and Potowatomi tribes and French seafarers perished while crossing the treacherous currents between the peninsula and Washington Island becoming a “watery grave” earning its dark moniker. But as tourism increased, the morbid “D” word was dropped. Today, sunken schooners resting in peace at the bottom of the freshwater lake are an homage to Door County’s maritime legacy. On an adventurous high-speed boat tour, I held onto my hat as Captain Matt Olsen, proprietor of Door County Adventure Rafting, guided our group of four around Bailey’s Harbor in an inflatable rigid boat (like what Navy Seals use). Equal parts thrill ride and educational tour, we took in lakeside views of the peninsula, pricey cottages, learned about a once-thriving fishing industry, and cruised around tiny islands with working 19th-century lighthouses. Door County’s 11 lighthouses comprise the largest collection of guiding lights on the Great Lakes. It’s not every day that we visit shipwreck sites on a lake. After a high-gear adrenaline rush in open waters, Olson down-shifted to motor around shoals to view wreckage that had worked its way to shallow banks. “This wooden beam is just a small piece from any number of larger boats that sank miles away,” explained Olsen – some of the mystique that lures both sport divers and academics to Door County. “Marine archeologists from the University of Wisconsin dive the wrecks and map them out to protect and preserve them.” At the Door County Maritime Museum these findings, including shipwreck maps, artifacts, and the area’s shipbuilding history with the chance to explore every inch of the legendary Tug John Purves built in 1919 – paints the story of maritime commerce around the Great Lakes that connects to the Atlantic Ocean by way of the St. Lawrence Seaway. The peninsula’s earliest settlers from Sweden and Norway were also lured to the peninsula because its lush landscapes, rugged coastline, abundant fishing and logging were reminders of the homeland. That explains the Scandinavian traditions and cuisine around Door County – from “Midsommar” festival in June celebrating the arrival of summer, and outdoor fish boils on the lake at Rowley’s Bay waterfront resort where whitefish and potatoes boil in a giant cauldron on an open fire – the original group meal that used to feed lumberjacks and fishermen. Architecture is no exception. Like the authentic Norwegian log building housing Al Johnson’s Swedish Restaurant in Sister Bay. Made with Norwegian yellow pine, rosemaling (delicate floral painting), and a sod rooftop (look for grazing goats!), it was constructed in Norway, disassembled for transport to Door County, then rebuilt. The iconic log building, including a “butik” (Scandinavian gift shop) has become a beloved Door County attraction. And my taste buds danced with delight at the first bite of Swedish pancakes folded like linen napkins, fresh lingonberries and exquisite chunks of pickled herring. Door County’s Peninsula State Park is the “crown jewel” of the state park system. Its somewhat-rounded shape jutting out into Green Bay reminded me of British Columbia’s Stanley Park – but four times bigger (over 3,700 square acres). It’s a one-stop outdoor destination with hiking, bicycling, camping, a golf course, Eagle Bluff Lighthouse, famous Nicolet Bay Beach, and the renowned open-air Northern Sky Theater. I could hear a pin drop bicycling through the quiet forest, that is, until a few inclines challenged my cardio fitness. On another night I returned to the depths of the forest and under a starry sky joined a full house for opening night of “Boxcar,” a heartwarming Wisconsin story of a boy and a vagabond. Another reminder of Door County’s extraordinary place on the planet is The Ridges Sanctuary, designated a National Natural Landmark in 1937. This sandy landscape of crescent-shaped ridges and boreal forest is home to the most biologically diverse ecosystem in Wisconsin. Rare and endangered insects and flora thrive here, including the Hines Emerald Dragonfly and indigenous orchids that caught the eye of the Smithsonian Institute, which now partners with The Ridges in a continent-wide orchids study. “Our goal is not gardening or farming…we don’t water or weed,” said Ridges board member Jane Whitney, as we “tramped” underneath the forest canopy through marshes and bogs on a raised meandering boardwalk (wheelchair- and stroller-friendly) to the backdrop of soothing bird calls, a turtle bobbing above the lily pads, and a non-poisonous snake unaffected by our presence. “The Ridges’ mission,” she said, “… is long-term research and education.” Whitney’s stories about The Ridges Sanctuary thoroughly captivated me -- but then again, everything else I discovered around Door County Peninsula was anything but ordinary. WHEN YOU GO: Door County Visitor Bureau: www.doorcounty.com Door County Maritime Museum: www.dcmm.org Door County Adventure Rafting: www.doorcountyadventurerafting.com The Ridges Sanctuary: www.ridgessanctuary.org My accommodation: Eagle Harbor Inn, www.eagleharbor.com Published version: https://www.creators.com/read/travel-and-adventure/04/19/door-county-cape-cod-of-the-midwest PHOTO GALLERIES Gallery 1 (3 images) Gallery 2 (8 images)